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LouC

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  1. I do mine every spring, and dump it out in a mason jar to check for water/debris. Usually looks like these pix:
  2. I like the full time selection on the Selec Trac on the old 98.
  3. Older Jeep Wranglers & Cherokees also had a vacuum operated disconnect system for the front diff when they were shifted into 2 WD. It used a sliding collar operated by a vacuum motor. Sometimes if the vacuum lines leaked it either wouldn’t engage the axle or wouldn’t disengage depending on when the failure happened. Eventually they dropped this system around 1995 or so after that the front differentials spun all the time. I guess they didn’t think the fuel savings & less diff wear was worth it. FWIW my old 98 didn’t have the disconnect system & it has never refused to shift into 4x4. Eventually the aftermarket came up with a cable operated actuator to replace the vacuum system. My 07 Grand Limited 5.7 has auto engaging electric lockers front & rear (QD2) and it’s a great system.
  4. Nice repair on that! Too bad they don't have the manual lever any longer. Of the 3 4x4s we have, 2 have the manual lever ('98 Grand Cherokee, '17 Wrangler) and the one I drive most of the time ('07 Grand Cherokee Limited with QD-II) is in 4x4 all the time, the low range is electronically engaged, it never acted up till ChryCo did some foolish recall with the software that had to be re-done, after that no more problems. I do prefer this:
  5. Here in NY you have until the end of the month to get your 4x4/fishing permits for the State Parks system. All done on line now.
  6. We had the one on our '17 JK Unlimited Sport done at 61,000 miles, the dealer did it goodwill even though we were 1000 miles over on the powertrain warrantee. I have a spare Dorman aluminum housing in the garage for the next time. I agree this is not a good design, it's a shame really because the 3.6 is a good performing V6. I still have a Jeep 4.0 straight six, it's not like they don't leak oil too but it's usually a simple thing like a valve cover gasket.... This one is 25 years old and has 181,000 miles on it....1998 Grand Cherokee 4.0
  7. I installed a set of stainless lines when I added brakes to the trailer back in 2004 which is 19 years ago, they are still fine! I do have rubber flex lines going to the brake assemblies. Got everything from Champion Trailers.
  8. AFAIK only GM used the Allison and only with the Duramax diesel Mopar could make a better trans, all it takes is upgraded parts that their bean counters are too damn cheap to provide. I thought that any RAMs of recent manufacture should have the ZF 8 speed being made under license by Chrysler, but I guess the RFE series was still used with the Cummins. The Torqueflite 727 back in the old days was a great transmission, they mucked it up with a poorly engineered OD unit though (RE series) and poor machining on the clutch drums and defective lip seals. The next trans they used, the 545RFE is actually a good unit, the ones that are leaking are the bigger version of this I think, so what does it take to fix a leak at the dipstick tube?! FCA, or Stellantis as they are now known, is typically slow with recall parts. It sounds like the transmissions are overheating which causes the fluid to expand and gets to the top of the dipstick tube. Either that, or grossly overful. Just going by my Jeep with the 545 RFE that would have to be a real bad overheat for the fluid to get that high in the tube or it was really overfilled. If I had one of those I would for one thing make sure it isn't overfilled. That is common because people don't realize that full hot, means the trans temp is about 180*, if you can hold the end of the dipstick, it ain't that hot, in cold weather it may never get that hot, depending on how you drive. Just fill it to full cold when it's cold, then drive it and see how far it expands as the trans warms up. I will usually fill mine to full cold level, and then when it's as warmed up as it can get in cold weather it will be at the low end of the full hot range on the dipstick. A pan drop on this trans (545 RFE) takes 9.5 qts to get it to that level.
  9. I used to say don’t put Load Range E tires on Jeeps & half ton trucks now I’m not so sure! Might be time for tougher tires!
  10. Good point! In fact the guy at our boat yard where we get the bottom paint done has always had me hook up the trailer, they seem to want you to take the responsibility…
  11. 5.99 for 93 octane (all they sell) at Seymour’s in Northport LI.
  12. Neither of our Grand Cherokees had hooks I had to install them, I put a rear hitch & front hooks on the ‘98 and on the 07 I put on a front hitch because it came with the rear hitch as part of the factory tow package. The ‘17 Wrangler came with hooks front & rear. Another thought is if you have all wheel drive or selectable with the electric switch it would be good to verify it actually works. I actually prefer the old school manual transfer case with a mechanical shift linkage. Although the Quadradrive II system on my 07 has worked great over the years.
  13. I have not found there to be a big difference between all season & all terrain on the sand as long as you’re aired down correctly. I do prefer the deeper thicker tread of ATs for protection from flats. Now if you’re taking a P rated tire vs LT that does matter due to the stiffness of LT tires in load range E. Load range C is fine but I think Load range E is too stiff for beach use unless you have a heavy HD pick up. I see people putting E tires on Jeeps all the time because that’s what tire companies sell mostly but they are overkill on Wranglers unless you are off road with sharp rocks, stumps etc. But they don’t flex well enough for sand. A Load range C would be fine for Jeeps and half ton trucks & SUVs, otherwise I’d use a P rated tire…
  14. Came across a Jeep Liberty at Sore Thumb that lost his 4x4, or it was never really working in the first place and he got bogged down in the mushy part of the entrance road. I was willing to tow him back to the entrance but he had no tow hooks. Didn’t want to take a chance bending or breaking something but someone else did pull him back. So make sure you have tow hooks or a hitch you can put a hook or shackle in…
  15. I have always liked those and want a 20’ Walk Around for my next boat that can be trailered on a single axle trailer, that works for my storage area….challenge is finding one that does not need a repower given todays outboard prices!
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