JohnP

Going D O W N

49 posts in this topic

Who has tinkered with ways to get Down and stay down (I.e SINKING lines)

 

this means getting at least 10-15 feet in current

 

best way for me is still the LC 13 shooting head

 

i have the Rio Tungsten (I think that’s what it is called). The running line gets tangled every other cast 

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Same results with the Orvis HD Depth Charge on the tangles, but when it doesn't tangle it does what I need it to do so I'm willing to accept it. Honestly I think I've tried at least 10 of these lines over the years and tangles just seem to come with the territory. If I could locate the stiff orange braided mono I used to get from Clemens tackle I'd just use that, but for now I'm too lazy so I just put $50 in the curse jar every time I use it!

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13 mins ago, stormy monday said:

Same results with the Orvis HD Depth Charge on the tangles, but when it doesn't tangle it does what I need it to do so I'm willing to accept it. Honestly I think I've tried at least 10 of these lines over the years and tangles just seem to come with the territory. If I could locate the stiff orange braided mono I used to get from Clemens tackle I'd just use that, but for now I'm too lazy so I just put $50 in the curse jar every time I use it!

Cortland still makes braided mono running line, but I think only in white.

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Rio T-14 (the tungsten version of LC-13) and Cortland braided mono has been working pretty well for me.

 

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3 hours ago, mrl said:

Rio T-14 (the tungsten version of LC-13) and Cortland braided mono has been working pretty well for me.

 

 

So you are using the shooting head version or the integrated line version ?

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Posted (edited)

I have used the RIO 26' density compensated line and clousers or half and halfs to get down to the bottom in inlets etc.  I fish that on an 11wt.

 

RIO InTouch Striper 30' DC Sink Tip Fly Line   looks like the current equivalent.

 

you do want a DC line IMHO as otherwise when you are stripping the flye back at the end of a swing, you are pulling the flye up rather than along the bottom.

 

Edited by TimS
Please don’t post commercial links here - thanks :-)

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there are times when a spinning rod  IS the way to go........

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6 hours ago, JohnP said:

Who has tinkered with ways to get Down and stay down (I.e SINKING lines)

 

this means getting at least 10-15 feet in current

 

best way for me is still the LC 13 shooting head

 

i

don't know 'tucket very well. Except for East side/Sankaty for monstah blues. And the Old Man. Plus shoals east of the Island that I fished for bass lo ago, but beyond the 3-milen limit (guys go out there for bass C&R, and can always say they're after blues or cobia, and say bass catches are incidental).

I've set up with braided running line and heads, and before that, flat mono like Cobra. But my first is to use a sink tip, and do the mending I learned in FW.

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What Aquacide, I use one one on my 9wt, no issues.

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3 hours ago, bobber said:

there are times when a spinning rod  IS the way to go........

 

Sorta..

 

but ya get a few on the meat stick and then you think to yourself

 

’wonder If I can get em on the 10 weight...’

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When the fly is made sink fast it sinks fastest when it is tied to a long and thin mono leader! When fly head is weighted and it is slim it sinks head ahead and even fastest sinking line has more drag than fly and thin leader. But such setup is nasty to overhead cast but quite easy to Spey and Roll cast all possible way even 25ft mono leader setup. When doing Snaps there is a danger to cause a collision with rod and fly so use Circle-C way first and tighten the anchor setting when you know how fly lifts out of water. It is not nowhere smooth as casting long line but sometimes fishing require it ;)

 

When Spey casting the longer leader improves the cast efficiency when there comes more line mass to the top of the D-loop and when the line tip is light and long the anchor "blows" less when fly truly forms an anchor.

 

When also the line head sinks the fly stays deep better. I have cast 15ft T-tips using a single hand rod. Yes they are just the same I have cast using Skagit bellys. 15ft T18 weights 270gr and is good with 8wt rod.

 

For DH rods my very fast sinking shooting heads are longer but shortest are only 22ft and they are made using various so called "grain lines". T-line material can be bought in lengths but heavier than T18 is not easy to find. In UK web shop there are very cheap Airflo 30ft Custom Cut Shooting Heads up to 700gr which resembles T23 but perhaps postage comes too high? SA has 30ft UST "grain" heads up to 850gr and they are tapered which should be better casting for strong DH rods but they are not cheap. When cutting lines shorter do not throw the line pieces away but loop them.

 

Also a shooting head sinks fastest when it is tied to the mono shooting line.

 

Esa

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Dumb question: you talking about casting from surf/rocks or from a boat? 

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14 hours ago, Aquacide said:

I have used the RIO 26' density compensated line and clousers or half and halfs to get down to the bottom in inlets etc.  I fish that on an 11wt.

 

RIO InTouch Striper 30' DC Sink Tip Fly Line   looks like the current equivalent.

 

you do want a DC line IMHO as otherwise when you are stripping the flye back at the end of a swing, you are pulling the flye up rather than along the bottom.

 

I have the Rio InTouch sinking lines - both the 250 grain (for my 7 wt) and the 350 grain (for my 9 wt)...great lines and does exactly what I want. I can dredge the bottom while fishing the mouth of the merrimac, fish deep in the canal (in the few/limited locations where you have room to fly fish), southside (cape) outflows, etc....well behaved in terms of tangling

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