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Comparable reels to Penn 6/0

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JohnnyHookaLip

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Reels in that size bracket are largely gone, replaced by reels in smaller sizes that are designed for use with braided line.  A 6/0 reel has a lot of spool volume that you no longer need, save perhaps for grander tuna and billfish. 

 

If you really do need that much space on the spool, the Daiwa Sealine 600 is fine. I don't recall if its' still in production or not.  I have a 900H in my cellar that caught all but a couple of my modest lifetime tuna catch. 

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So you bring up something interesting about the newer reels size and using braided line... when looking for YFT reel 

 

1. What lb braid should you use for YFT

2. What’s the minimum or ideal amount braid line should a reel hold

3. What the minimum lb drag should your reel handle

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My experience dates me, and it's limited to large partyboats (Viking Star, Tampa VIII).  For partyboating, you could get away with a 4/0 reel and 60 lb mono.  The Viking boat rules still prefer mono, so (for me ) 80 lb. on that 9/0 Sealine I mentioned.  If you look like you know what you're doing, the mates may wink at a reel with braid, usually on a two-speed lever drag.

 

 Newer (still dated) gear: Penn Int'l II 16, 60 lb. braid with a fluoro topshot; Int'l II  30SW with 100 lb braid; Torque 300 with 80 lb braid; and one new reel, a Saltiga 35H with 60.  The 16, 300 and 35H are all jigging reels. The 900 is for chunking at anchor, and the 30SW is for trolling and chunking.

 

I have no experience of real big game fishing, so will turn the thread over to those who do. 

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  • 1 month later...

for east coast tuna under 200lbs  I like Avet LX raptor with 65 lb Jerry Brown. The reel is around 25-26 ounces, can hold over 600 yards of 65 braid, and has plenty of drag 28lbs strike/38lbs full .

 

minimum line Id want at least 400 yds and at least be able to bump up 20 lbs of drag. But forget the minimum a bigye hits your line you want a chance to get it in the boat. 

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depends what you're doing.

 

Party boats may not allow braid.  Keep that in mind.

 

For jigging I like small and light. My sx Raptor (on a seeker I built...feels more like a fluke setup lol)  holds 240 of 60ish braid I think.  I've taken Bluefin to 125ish with that setup.  Never been in trouble line-wise, but that day may come.  I like the colored line for jigging.

 

For bait fishing I'd go a little larger just for the capacity and a bit heavier line.  Jerry Brown hollow core 100# and splice on a wind-on

Edited by makorider
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/29/2018 at 5:09 PM, JohnnyHookaLip said:

So you bring up something interesting about the newer reels size and using braided line... when looking for YFT reel 

 

1. What lb braid should you use for YFT

2. What’s the minimum or ideal amount braid line should a reel hold

3. What the minimum lb drag should your reel handle

 

Well, here's the kicker "when fishing for Yellowfin......................"

 

You're probably out in a canyon, where anything goes.  Yeah, you're looking for 40-80lb Yellowfin, but you can very easily encounter a 150lb Bigeye, a Mako, the occasional Giant Bluefin, or a Blue Marlin.

 

For your average Yellowfin, you can get away with a whole spool 50lb test mono no problem, but what happens when something biiiiiiiiiiiiig comes along?  You don't want the fish of a lifetime on 50lb mono.

 

So, what a lot of use are doing nowadays is spooling up 30s with 80-100lb hollow core, with a 100 yard topshot of 60lb mono, and 50s with 130lb hollow core and a topshot of 100 yards of 80lb mono.  Replace the topshot as needed, and the hollow core base will last for years.  You get a real shot at landing just about anything with a setup like that, and the 30s are much more enjoyable to use than those big ole' Senators.

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  • 1 year later...

I don't care toi troll with braid.  If you're planning to troll and feel the need to fish 50 for yellowfin, I'd suggest that you try to find used Penn International 50s in decent shape and load them with 50 pound mono.  The reels are tanks.  Bought mine many, many years ago, and they're still going strong.  Yellowfin, marlin, bigeye, longfin, bluefin and a host of sharks of yarious sorts, including quality makos and threshers, were all handled with ease.

 

If you want to fish braid, listen to the folks above.  Not something that I have a lot of experience with because, as I say, I don't care for the stuff in that application, so can't give advice on that.

 

"I have always believed that outdoor writers who come out against fish and wildlife conservation are in the wrong business. To me, it makes as much sense golf writers coming out against grass.."  --  Ted Williams

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On 7/1/2018 at 8:34 PM, JoeyZac said:

 

Well, here's the kicker "when fishing for Yellowfin......................"

 

You're probably out in a canyon, where anything goes.  Yeah, you're looking for 40-80lb Yellowfin, but you can very easily encounter a 150lb Bigeye, a Mako, the occasional Giant Bluefin, or a Blue Marlin.

 

For your average Yellowfin, you can get away with a whole spool 50lb test mono no problem, but what happens when something biiiiiiiiiiiiig comes along?  You don't want the fish of a lifetime on 50lb mono.

 

So, what a lot of use are doing nowadays is spooling up 30s with 80-100lb hollow core, with a 100 yard topshot of 60lb mono, and 50s with 130lb hollow core and a topshot of 100 yards of 80lb mono.  Replace the topshot as needed, and the hollow core base will last for years.  You get a real shot at landing just about anything with a setup like that, and the 30s are much more enjoyable to use than those big ole' Senators.

Right on here.  We use Fin Nor Maquesas and load with 100 lb braid to 80lb topshot.  Much better to fight the fish with a lighter set up.  Landed loads of tuna marlin and the like 

 

 

I fish fine

look stupid 

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