JCH

Jerry Brown - Gel Spun Backing

28 posts in this topic

I am a firm believer in braid for backing --I hate Dacron.  Dacron burns my finger badly as braid does not.  I use 50 pound power pro.  In the past I used Jerry Brown or Western Filament.  Granted if a fish gets out much more than 250/300 years you are done if you are using 20 pound tippet --line backing drag will part the tippet.  I just like handling bread better than Dacron --as I use my fingers for extra drag.  

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Hatch PE is a joke. To the rest of the world braid is PE, ie poly ethelyne. There is no difference between it and a quality braid. Its just marketing. 

 

Personally, i use seaguar hollow core 

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20 mins ago, iamnobody said:

Hatch PE is a joke. To the rest of the world braid is PE, ie poly ethelyne. There is no difference between it and a quality braid. Its just marketing. 

 

Agreed, just awful stuff.

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JB Hollow braid is good. Splice in an end loop made with 100lb and you have no knots anywhere.

 

For those of you cutting your fingers on your backing, you're doing it wrong.

 

Cheers,

Graeme

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On 4/12/2018 at 4:42 PM, saltfisherman said:

If you need that much extra line as a backing you are not controlling the fish correctly to start with.

This is, of course, correct.  I guess the extra line simply gives me peace of mind.  Worth it.

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I've been using braid as backing on all my salt reels for over 25 seasons , it's the way to go , just make sure if ur offshore fishing pack it on reel tight so under a heavier drag it will not bury itself .

Also a west coast outfit sells Toro Tamer brand braid , it's very well made and they have splice able HC down to 30# test . 

U can loop splice for quick changes by installing HC loops which offer very little resistence going thru guides or u can core splice which is one n done ! 

Braid offer several features over dacron , more capacity , thinner diameter less resistence when dragged thru water by larger fish , also spool reduction is limited due to its smaller diameter , so u retain slightly higher retrive ratios if your fish get a head of steam .

To me it's a win - win 

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9 hours ago, JCH said:

This is, of course, correct.  I guess the extra line simply gives me peace of mind.  Worth it.

JCH, you can add more standard backing very easily. Just purchase a standard arbor reel not a large arbor. Now given That both the reels are the same dia to start with the retrieval rate is the same for both with full capacity of line. The difference comes in once you have gone below the large arbor reels dia on the standard arbor one, then the retrieval rate is smaller. 

 

Ive always been a person that if a fish is well beyond my line and into the backing a lot, it’s a lost fish at any moment. You have lost complete control of it. The amount of line now has increased your drag significantly and any given time the fish will break off. That fish turns and heads at you, you might as well just consider it lost. There is almost no way you’d be able to reel fast enough to gain line, control the fish. 

 

 The best thing I did years ago is learn the tippets limits. Stress the line while fighting  a fish. Put it through it’s paces. You will be surprised the amount of pressure line can withstand before it snaps. Now take that line and give it a quick pull and it’s a different animal all together, it has no forgiveness. Yes you will loose fish and that’s the point. Pick a day where the bluefish, just to pick a fish of good numbers, are thick and have at it. It’s a perfect time to just loose flies, test tippets weights and rod angles. Blues are strong through out the entire fight. I want a fish to be not green when it’s along side me but to be a little spent and easy to recover. It has to kick like crazy and I’m not reviving it hoping it survives. I want to be on to the next fish quick. You need to loose fish to gain experience of your equipment. If a fish gets so far away from me, I just hold the line and break it off. It’s time to move on tothe next. 

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20 hours ago, saltfisherman said:

That fish turns and heads at you, you might as well just consider it lost.

Ain't that the truth.  A fly reel seems like it would be a very simple and easy thing to operate - until you have an albie swimming directly at you.

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6 hours ago, JCH said:

Ain't that the truth.  A fly reel seems like it would be a very simple and easy thing to operate - until you have an albie swimming directly at you.

try sticking your rod tip in the water when the fish is running at you.  Water drag will help keep the hook in the right place

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34 mins ago, bhorsley said:

try sticking your rod tip in the water when the fish is running at you.  Water drag will help keep the hook in the right place

That works every time, plus you won't brake your rod if the fish swims under the boat in the process! 

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44 mins ago, bhorsley said:

try sticking your rod tip in the water when the fish is running at you.  Water drag will help keep the hook in the right place

I agree. There will be plenty of pressure to keep the hook seated due to the line being dragged through the water. 

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Posted (edited)

I don't know about the JB hollow core, but I purchased some JB regular braid in a couple of batches and I don't think it is (or was) the original thing.  Some online versions of this line were fake - it has been reported at least at one retailer that they did not trust the source.  Just sayin'  - I now don't trust JB non hollow.

Edited by Killiefish

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12 hours ago, bhorsley said:

try sticking your rod tip in the water when the fish is running at you.  Water drag will help keep the hook in the right place

Never tried this.  I'll give it a shot - thank you!

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