Mandoborg

Help w/DIY Duplicator

50 posts in this topic

Nice Pickup!

2 hours ago, DMacLeod said:

All good points you should take in.  These guys are very good at spinning wood.

 

If you want to think nervous try this.   

 

I was very skeptical when I approached this piece.   full cut 12 by 12 spinning at 450 RPM

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Wow,

High pucker factor there, I think I might have broken out the motorcycle helmet.....just looking at all the splits and cracks has me a little anxious. A 4 ounce AYC blank flying out of the lathe really gets your attention in a hurry, can't imagine a 20 pound piece of wood flying around. How'd it come out?

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that sander is a beauty...have the same one...some have a big 12" disc on the side...they run between 350 an 450.00..nice grab....I see lots of jigs coming...you'll like it once shes humming again.

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12 hours ago, Steel Pulse said:

Check out this sander I grabbed at work. Needs a little work but they were tossing it. Wicked heavy a bitch getting down cellar. 

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Nice grab there 

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13 hours ago, Ed White said:

Nice Pickup!

Wow,

High pucker factor there, I think I might have broken out the motorcycle helmet.....just looking at all the splits and cracks has me a little anxious. A 4 ounce AYC blank flying out of the lathe really gets your attention in a hurry, can't imagine a 20 pound piece of wood flying around. How'd it come out?

It came out good.  I somewhat stabilized the cracks with urethane glue.fullsizeoutput_8d.thumb.jpeg.a167d8b68b6f373b3704d1e2fdd82d74.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

You could help your duplicator to keep it from jamming by extending the bottom base so that it extends at least to the tip of the cutter. I had similar issues until I made a new base plate that extended past the tip of the cutter. The way you have it now when the strain on the bit gets too high, the bit has no support straight down and the duplicator pivots and digs in. If you extend the base, the bit will have more support straight down. SB and Capesams use a lot of weight to offset that tendency to pivot.

Edited by fishing bum wannabe

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Posted (edited)

I loaded the base with lead today...quite a bit heavier with a better, more solid feel to it ...... fishing bum, I'm not following how you would extend the base...... wouldn't that get in the way of the ' tracer ' ? In my case that 1/4 inch dowel.  Or do you mean extend the base 1/2 inch or so and shorten the tracer to a 1/4" or so  ??....I went to page 8 of the old thread you had to get a look at both your cutter blocks, but they don't extend past the main body. Is this something you've done since that original discussion ? I'm going to try again tonight the way it is.....but I'm going to round out my stock with a gauge before setting up the duplicator.  We'll see how it goes before lifting up my table...that would take a run to the hardware store !!!   :O)   Fingers crossed !!  Thanks Again for everyone's patience  .......

Edited by Mandoborg
Clarification

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whats fbw is saying is to make a base extend further out in front with a shorter pin or just move your cutter head and pin further back into the block that you have so it doesn' t stick out so far away from the face of the block....being stuck out that far you have less support under your cutter head....I'd move both back a 1/4" atleast.

 

one of the reasons your blocks blew up was because your gutter got jammed into the ends of the unturned wood  face  or end grain which can be a cutter grabber.

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Posted (edited)

Ahhh gotcha..... that's funny , and here  I thought I was exposing the minimum too !!! I'll scoot it back 1/4 inch maybe a bit more....Had great success tonight...only turned one... kind of roughed out the shape with a gauge and then only had to shave maybe 1/8 off the entire plug. With the added weight, the cutter block just  felt ' better '.... seemed much more solid while cutting...which made me much more at ease, comfortable, but as always Alert !!  Still going to tweak it with the above mentioned tips, but I think I'm on my way.... capesams you hit the nail right on the head with why my blocks exploded....last night I sat on the couch looking at the pieces hoping they'd tell me what I did wrong , and I noticed they all had fatal digs in the exact same place, right at the end where it squares back out.... You guys know your stuff and I'm VERY Thankful for your guidance.....I was going to say just in time to put the lathe away and hit the water...but damn, is SNOWED here in RI today so maybe I'll keep it out for another couple of weeks !!    :O)  THANKS again everyone !!!  

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Edited by Mandoborg

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The only other suggestion would be to remove the stock head drive spur and tail live center that comes with the lathe and replace them with much smaller one like 3/8" or 1/2"....this way you can cut all the way to the ends of your wood blocks

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Yeah I like to turn all the way the way off the piece too. I don’t like square ends on my plugs. I also cut off the corners of my stock leaving a hex shape to start turning with. With this kind of duplicator it will help you a lot to not have to deal with the corners especially with harder species. I run them thru the band saw with a little fixture. Very fast and easy. 

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Paul,

I've been meaning to get setup to do this for years, maybe I'll get off my arse and do it, just the reduction in sawdust alone would justify it, plus less vibration on the poor dupe, that interrupted cut has to be hell on the equipment.

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Dang, I'm about to ask a stupid question for my own info. If you're turning off the entire piece,  how are you drilling your hook, weight, and eye holes.... and cutting your lip slots w/out the square ends to register off ??  Just curious .

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