Sudsy

Hot water heater - water on the floor

102 posts in this topic

On 3/30/2018 at 10:24 PM, cheech said:

When they are close to the main and they fire at night there is no place for expansion except out the t&p valve. Some tanks require a small cushion or expansion tank teed into the cold in line for this issue. 

Thanks

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you need an expansion tank. with the check in the meter, you could start with zero pressure, and quickly reach 150 psi and loose water out of the relief valve. (provided no faucets, or any water is used when the tank is heating)  the water co. guy is wrong.   if you go on rheems website, look on thee bottom left of the page, you'll see technical bulletins. click on common bulletins, then "thermal expansion".   there's more info there than anyone should want to know about water heaters.  

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Yup

With the pressure gauge attached and the temp turned all the way up the pressure spiked

Expansion tank is in and the pressure is staying under 55# at the highest

Problem solved

Stupid water co guy :mad:

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Glad that floor is finally dry! FWIW, some of those fancy galvanized 3/4" nipples included with new hwh tanks have built in ballchecks to prevent back flow. This can compound overnight HW thermal expansion issues.

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Water pressure at my house runs at about 90 psi. No expansion tank and I've Never had a problem with the relief valve leaking.

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13 hours ago, Sudsy said:

Yup

With the pressure gauge attached and the temp turned all the way up the pressure spiked

Expansion tank is in and the pressure is staying under 55# at the highest

Problem solved

Stupid water co guy :mad:

Either uniformed (and maybe stupid :)) or didn't want to admit that their new meter caused you problems.  I suspect that without the expansion tank and with a new check valve, that new meter just pushed your already failing old tank.  At least it's solved.

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16 hours ago, chitala383 said:

Water pressure at my house runs at about 90 psi. No expansion tank and I've Never had a problem with the relief valve leaking.

You don’t have a check valve or backflow preventor in your main, water is allowed to expand back into the main line.

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31 mins ago, ted527 said:

You don’t have a check valve or backflow preventor in your main, water is allowed to expand back into the main line.

Ah OK, that makes sense. So then what is the point of having a check valve?

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Protects the city water from backflow from the household should the city pressure drop and avoid system contamination. Similar reason to the antisiphon /air gaps on hose bibs.

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According to my plumber guy - so the there's no back flow and the water company can charge you for every single drip that comes out of your faucet

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I just realized, now I'm responsible for about 100' of old pipe - the difference between the meter in the wall in my garage and the meter down at the street

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2 hours ago, Sudsy said:

I just realized, now I'm responsible for about 100' of old pipe - the difference between the meter in the wall in my garage and the meter down at the street

I think you've always been liable for pipe leading to the street shutoff regardless of where the meter is located.  I know I am since I paid twice to have leaks repaired just beyond the street shutoff when my meter was under the house.  Gas and electric are different, utility company is responsible up to and including the meter.  After that you're SOL.

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