Belmo

SSV Upgraded Gear Kit - Stupid Question

19 posts in this topic

One for the Penn guys: I got the upgraded gear kit for my SSV 5500, and I have a stupid question, one that I apologize in advance if it's already been asked and answered: 

What do the shims do? I think I figured out where they go, but what is their purpose? Do they align the new gears? Do they adjust the height of the spool as it goes up and down when you turn the handle? Do they do something else? 

I ask because I took the reel apart and put it back together twice, each with a different configuration of shims, but each time I put Humpty Dumpty together again, the reel was not totally smooth: it felt like the gears were not meshing properly. 


Since I have three shims (one was in the reel, plus the two that came with the gear kit), there are at least 7 possible different configurations, so rather than having to take it apart and put it back together 7 times, I figured I'd ask -- maybe I'm the only one dumb enough to ask the question (that's possible!), but there might be someone else out there thinking the same thing. 

 

I searched for this, and didn't find this exact question -- maybe my imbecility will help someone else in the same boat. I dig these reels, if only because they're so easy to self-service that a moron like me can do it, but I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around what the shims are supposed to do. 

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Belmo....IDK if this will help, but I got upgraded gears for my 4500 and might also get them for my 5500. Because I'm on a budget, I often repair/maintain what I own, as opposed to sending stuff out.

 

Shims: as far as I know, there are two places for shims, below the spool on spindle; and inside the gearbox against the main gear on the crank's shaft. If I remember correct the shims are different and plastic ones further adjust the spool, thin metal ones adjust the gear

 

My best luck was treating the two places for shims separately. The shims under the spool, which regulated line lay, could be adjusted without affecting the gear's performance, now or later. I chose later...after I had the gears turning as smoothly as I could get.

 

There is 'interaction' between how tight the rotor nut is and how many shims go on the gear. The process took me an hour (all the work I did of cleaning/greasing/replacing took many hours....but specific to gettin gears least 'grindy' and handle turning with least resistance, took an hour the first time, significantly less in subsequent cleanings). 

 

IF, you have what seems like the right amount of shims on the gear, but it seems too tight when you turn the handle, I would try backing of the rotor nut as much as a turn, but likely more like a 1/3. There are two holes that the screw that holds the retainer clip for the rotor nut can go into. You might need to change screw holes doing this adjustment. 

 

IF adjusting the rotor nut doesn't get you where you want, then it's a matter of adding/losing gear shims. Initially, IF there are 2 shims on the gear, AND you're starting off too tight, I would try putting the rotor nut back where it was (tightness) before the previous step, and then remove one shim, re-assemble, and give it a test run. If it feels too tight, loosen the rotor nut. If it feels too loose, tighten the rotor. 

 

There are obvious PITAs. In order to check each adjustment of gear washer/shims, you have to replace all the sideplate screws, and the crank/handle. Rotor nut adjustments require removing/replacing the spool. I choose not to keep replacing the spool..just leave it off until you 'think' you've got the adjustments are done. 

 

Final settings for me seemed to leave the rotor slightly looser than I felt it should be, and the handle with slightly more play than I thought it should have, but the reel has perfomed fine like this....I've seen no signs of undue wear in subsequent cleanings

 

Hope this helps. Maybe Tuttle will weigh in. He knows stuff and gave me useful advice dealing with essentially same question you asked

 

 

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2 mins ago, Livefreeordie said:

Belmo....IDK if this will help, but I got upgraded gears for my 4500 and might also get them for my 5500. Because I'm on a budget, I often repair/maintain what I own, as opposed to sending stuff out.

 

Shims: as far as I know, there are two places for shims, below the spool on spindle; and inside the gearbox against the main gear on the crank's shaft. If I remember correct the shims are different and plastic ones further adjust the spool, thin metal ones adjust the gear

 

My best luck was treating the two places for shims separately. The shims under the spool, which regulated line lay, could be adjusted without affecting the gear's performance, now or later. I chose later...after I had the gears turning as smoothly as I could get.

 

There is 'interaction' between how tight the rotor nut is and how many shims go on the gear. The process took me an hour (all the work I did of cleaning/greasing/replacing took many hours....but specific to gettin gears least 'grindy' and handle turning with least resistance, took an hour the first time, significantly less in subsequent cleanings). 

 

IF, you have what seems like the right amount of shims on the gear, but it seems too tight when you turn the handle, I would try backing of the rotor nut as much as a turn, but likely more like a 1/3. There are two holes that the screw that holds the retainer clip for the rotor nut can go into. You might need to change screw holes doing this adjustment. 

 

IF adjusting the rotor nut doesn't get you where you want, then it's a matter of adding/losing gear shims. Initially, IF there are 2 shims on the gear, AND you're starting off too tight, I would try putting the rotor nut back where it was (tightness) before the previous step, and then remove one shim, re-assemble, and give it a test run. If it feels too tight, loosen the rotor nut. If it feels too loose, tighten the rotor. 

 

There are obvious PITAs. In order to check each adjustment of gear washer/shims, you have to replace all the sideplate screws, and the crank/handle. Rotor nut adjustments require removing/replacing the spool. I choose not to keep replacing the spool..just leave it off until you 'think' you've got the adjustments are done. 

 

Final settings for me seemed to leave the rotor slightly looser than I felt it should be, and the handle with slightly more play than I thought it should have, but the reel has perfomed fine like this....I've seen no signs of undue wear in subsequent cleanings

 

Hope this helps. Maybe Tuttle will weigh in. He knows stuff and gave me useful advice dealing with essentially same question you asked

 

 

This is a BIG help. Thank you! :th:

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Belmo,

 

Ultimately you want to shim as much as possible without binding the gears (within .002"-.004").  Using a pair of calipers to measure the amount of shims you are using is the proper way to do it, adding/removing shims based on how much handle play you have.  You can always send the reel in and we can shim properly is always an option as well. 

 

tony

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3 mins ago, PENN Fishing said:

Belmo,

 

Ultimately you want to shim as much as possible without binding the gears (within .002"-.004").  Using a pair of calipers to measure the amount of shims you are using is the proper way to do it, adding/removing shims based on how much handle play you have.  You can always send the reel in and we can shim properly is always an option as well. 

 

tony

Thanks, Tony! 

Nah, I wanna do it myself -- learnin' is why I did it. And I got a good pair of digital calipers I can use. 

I think I mis-shimmed, because cranking feels grindy, if that's a word, and I think that I have too many shims in there. I'll play around and post back here. 


And if worse comes to worse, I'll just ship the reel back to you in 100 pieces. :D 

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4 mins ago, Belmo said:

Thanks, Tony! 

Nah, I wanna do it myself -- learnin' is why I did it. And I got a good pair of digital calipers I can use. 

I think I mis-shimmed, because cranking feels grindy, if that's a word, and I think that I have too many shims in there. I'll play around and post back here. 


And if worse comes to worse, I'll just ship the reel back to you in 100 pieces. :D 

Haha.  Free labor to install the gears don't forget:

 

SOL,

 

The CNC machined gear sets are now available for purchase.   A few ways to have them installed:

 

*Call our Customer Service line to purchase and install yourself.  Part # is the 7 digit number next to the model.

 

Parts Customer Service

Monday thru Friday
8:00 A.M. - 5:30 P.M. EST
Phone: (800) 892-5444

 

SSV3500 1415298 - $55.40 + shipping & taxes (Machined aluminum gear, brass pinion)

SSV4500 1415298  - $55.40 + shipping & taxes (Machined aluminum gear, brass pinion)

SSV5500 1415301 - $63.75 + shipping & taxes (Machined aluminum gear, brass pinion)

SSV6500 1415315 - $63.75 + shipping & taxes (Machined brass gear, brass pinion)

SSV7500 1415304  - $74.15 + shipping & taxes (Machined brass gear, brass pinion)

SSV8500 1415304 - $74.15 + shipping & taxes (Machined brass gear, brass pinion)

SSV9500 1415307 - $74.15 + shipping & taxes (Machined brass gear, brass pinion)

SSV10500 1415307 - $74.15 + shipping & taxes (Machined brass gear, brass pinion)

 

The SSV5500 and SSV6500 gear sets are inter-changeable.  What does this mean?   If you have an SSV5500 reel you could purchase either the 5500 set with aluminum gear, or the 6500 set with the brass gear.  Same if you have an SSV6500 reel, you could purchase either.  No other models are inter-changeable. 

 

 

*Order from one of our Preferred Parts Vendors, Scott's B&T and Fisherman's Headquarters both located in NJ.  They will have them in stock in a few days.  Contact and locations can be found here:  http://www.pennfishing.com/PENN-parts.html

 

 

If you were to purchase the kit, it would come with Main drive gear, pinion gear, 2 shims.  You would need to shim as needed and be careful not to damage any parts as this would not be covered under our Manufacturing Warranty. 

 

 

*Send your reel in and we can install the gear set for you. 

 

 

If you wish to send the reel in and are an SOL member we will perform the gear swap as follows:

$0.00 labor + cost of kit + return shipping and handling.

*This applies only if the reel is in good working order and does not need cleaning or other parts.

 

 Non Members:

$10.00 labor + cost of kit + return shipping and handling.

*This applies only if reel is in good working order and does not need cleaning or other parts.

 

When sending the reel in please note you would like the CNC machined gear kit installed, and we also need your SOL Username. 

 

Reels should be sent to:

 

Factory Service Department
PENN Fishing Tackle Mfg. Co.
3028 West Hunting Park Avenue
Philadelphia, PA 19132
(800) 892-5444

 

tony

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I just bought a Penn SSV 4500. Should I upgrade right away or wait a while until the gear that's in there wears down? 

 

I was thinking about opening my reel and doing some prophylactic lubing right away, just to make sure it's nice and greasy in there. How much should I tighten the side plate? I have had problems with my reels getting "cranky" after I open them up and put them back together after a lube job. And I have always wondered: have I overtightened something or undertightened something and would some shims help or hurt?

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10 mins ago, Otshawytsha said:

I just bought a Penn SSV 4500. Should I upgrade right away or wait a while until the gear that's in there wears down? 

It's your call, and it depends on how you plan to fish it, but I would.

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I recently purchased the SSV 4500 as well but haven’t fished with it yet. From what I can tell cranking without load it seems smooth and solid.

Is this upgrade offered to correct an OEM issue? If not what are the gains to upgrading? 

I apologize if this has already been addressed I just saw this thread and thought I’d ask. Thanks in advance 

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6 hours ago, chessie_yaker said:

I recently purchased the SSV 4500 as well but haven’t fished with it yet. From what I can tell cranking without load it seems smooth and solid.

Is this upgrade offered to correct an OEM issue? If not what are the gains to upgrading? 

I apologize if this has already been addressed I just saw this thread and thought I’d ask. Thanks in advance 

Just my opinion....but, I have an 4500 and a 5500 ssv. I beat the crap out of the 4500...a few hundred bass and 2 yrs  where big blues haunted a bridge in the fall, and I had to winch them away from the concrete before the line frayed. The amount of pressure, abuse, and only cleaning 3x/yr (I submerged, fished in heavy rain, laid down in sand, etc) on the 4500...and after 2.5 yrs, I noticed some wear on the gears, so I got the upgrade. Now, I use the 5500 almost exclusively (it's the 'right size' for potential big bass and blues, IMO) but lend the 4500,and use on occasion.The 5500 has about 700 bass on it, maybe 200 blues, 20 weakfish...and I can see NO WEAR on the gears. I was gonna get the upgrade for the 5500....maybe I will in the future.

 

I keep changing line rollers, springs, sideplate screws, etc...but the gears on the 5500 are still good. I think the strain on the 4500 did the trick...it was slightly undersized/under-powered forwhat I was using it for.

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3 hours ago, Livefreeordie said:

Just my opinion....but, I have an 4500 and a 5500 ssv. I beat the crap out of the 4500...a few hundred bass and 2 yrs  where big blues haunted a bridge in the fall, and I had to winch them away from the concrete before the line frayed. The amount of pressure, abuse, and only cleaning 3x/yr (I submerged, fished in heavy rain, laid down in sand, etc) on the 4500...and after 2.5 yrs, I noticed some wear on the gears, so I got the upgrade. Now, I use the 5500 almost exclusively (it's the 'right size' for potential big bass and blues, IMO) but lend the 4500,and use on occasion.The 5500 has about 700 bass on it, maybe 200 blues, 20 weakfish...and I can see NO WEAR on the gears. I was gonna get the upgrade for the 5500....maybe I will in the future.

 

I keep changing line rollers, springs, sideplate screws, etc...but the gears on the 5500 are still good. I think the strain on the 4500 did the trick...it was slightly undersized/under-powered forwhat I was using it for.

 

I've really gotta learn how to service my reel correctly. I've done it several times but don't really know what I'm doing. Happen to know of any books that would be useful?

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6 hours ago, Livefreeordie said:

Just my opinion....but, I have an 4500 and a 5500 ssv. I beat the crap out of the 4500...a few hundred bass and 2 yrs  where big blues haunted a bridge in the fall, and I had to winch them away from the concrete before the line frayed. The amount of pressure, abuse, and only cleaning 3x/yr (I submerged, fished in heavy rain, laid down in sand, etc) on the 4500...and after 2.5 yrs, I noticed some wear on the gears, so I got the upgrade. Now, I use the 5500 almost exclusively (it's the 'right size' for potential big bass and blues, IMO) but lend the 4500,and use on occasion.The 5500 has about 700 bass on it, maybe 200 blues, 20 weakfish...and I can see NO WEAR on the gears. I was gonna get the upgrade for the 5500....maybe I will in the future.

 

I keep changing line rollers, springs, sideplate screws, etc...but the gears on the 5500 are still good. I think the strain on the 4500 did the trick...it was slightly undersized/under-powered forwhat I was using it for.

That’s good to know. I won’t be putting it through quite that much of a torture test, but hopefully she’ll last me till the offseason to service. 

 

3 hours ago, Otshawytsha said:

 

I've really gotta learn how to service my reel correctly. I've done it several times but don't really know what I'm doing. Happen to know of any books that would be useful?

If you go on Penns website there are schematics or explodes diagrams of what is where and how to get to it. I don’t think there are books on servicing per se, but with the drawings and a fair mechanical ability you should be fine. 

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30 mins ago, chessie_yaker said:

 

30 mins ago, chessie_yaker said:

If you go on Penns website there are schematics or explodes diagrams of what is where and how to get to it. I don’t think there are books on servicing per se, but with the drawings and a fair mechanical ability you should be fine. 

 

 

Thanks I got the schematics there for past efforts. I've also watched some youtube videos and Alan Tani and John Tuttle tutorials on servicing reels. But recently, randomly, came across some advice in some threads that seem very important like putting the grease in between the teeth on the gear and tightening the rotor nut to the exact same point it was before you started servicing the reel. These points don't come up in the tutorials and videos, but seem pretty important, if they are correct!

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8 hours ago, Otshawytsha said:

 

I've really gotta learn how to service my reel correctly. I've done it several times but don't really know what I'm doing. Happen to know of any books that would be useful?

I don't know of books. I think it was SOL user Tuttle, but somebody had a thread with lots of pics, and they tore down an SSV. It gave me the confidence to start doing mine. The Penns are way simpler than the Shimanos....I think....maybe after I do my Shimanos a few times, I'll think they are easy, too. But, back to SSVs....I found it very helpful to print the schematic, readily available online at Penn website. Also, keeping the parts segregated helps me, and what I mean by that is: everything from above the spool stays over there, on that paper towel, every part from below the spool but above the clutch stays here...etc., I also suggest laying out the parts of the clutch assembly in order, facing the same direction you took them out. Until you get familiar, they are a puzzle.

 

Oh, and....Penn parts are cheap, and arrive in a reasonable time after ordered. If you use the reel hard, I'd consider ordering bearings, sideplate screws and line roller parts ahead of time. Shims, too. Eventually, you'll need them, and having them on hand might mean you don't miss any days/nights of fishing

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