Hairyjig

Charging fishfinder battery ?

34 posts in this topic

I was going to install a battery in the outback using the hobie battery mount but now that I think about it , I'm storing the kayak outside and would rather not run a cord out to charge it , and unplugging/unstrapping to remove it isn't very practical.  So how do you guys charge yours ?  A removable water proof box with a quick disconnect plug ? I see a lot of videos on how to make and install those boxes but no one shows if they remove them to charge .  If I stored the yak indoors i would just plug it in but that's not an option right now 

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Trailer connectors on battery, charger and wiring in yak ... keep pins slathered in dialectic grease and accept that you'll still need to replace them every 2 years or so (takes 20 minutes). With the battery terminals encased in glue, you don't need a waterproof case ... quick and easy to disconnect the battery.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.27de1a5a90258fccc880a546d1956d56.jpeg

 

 

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I do the same thing as Africaster. No water proof box needed. I use the Hobie battery holder and two bungees and put it on the sailing mast. Been doing it this way for years.

 

I keep two batteries. Both 12 volt 10 amp.  Every 2nd trip?  I swap the battery out. Leave a charger in the house with the leads on. Works.

 

 

 

 

hobie-battery-holder-mast.jpg

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4 hours ago, Africaster said:

Trailer connectors on battery, charger and wiring in yak ... keep pins slathered in dialectic grease and accept that you'll still need to replace them every 2 years or so (takes 20 minutes). With the battery terminals encased in glue, you don't need a waterproof case ... quick and easy to disconnect the battery.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.27de1a5a90258fccc880a546d1956d56.jpeg

 

 

Is that just hot glue or something else?

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1 hour ago, drmevo said:

Is that just hot glue or something else?

Yip, copious amounts! Keeps the battery tabs from corroding and/or bending, easy to cut-off or melt off when replacing the connector.

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20 mins ago, Africaster said:

Yip, copious amounts! Keeps the battery tabs from corroding and/or bending, easy to cut-off or melt off when replacing the connector.

Awesome, thanks. I was just looking into a waterproof box set up but now I won't bother. How do you keep the battery in place? I don't have a Hobie so I don't think Riddler's solution will work for me.  Velcro to the bottom?

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After running with a DIY battery system I went with the hobie sealed battery and charger. My battery last for quite a few outings I just charge as necessary- I charge it on my Kitchen counter. To keep the battery dry while in the kayak I use the same battery holder Riddler uses but mine sits in the 8" round hatch on the rear of the kayak. 

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2 hours ago, drmevo said:

Velcro to the bottom?

Yip, just don’t forget to take it out when transporting :th:

 

 

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On 3/13/2018 at 10:34 AM, Africaster said:

Trailer connectors on battery, charger and wiring in yak ... keep pins slathered in dialectic grease and accept that you'll still need to replace them every 2 years or so (takes 20 minutes). With the battery terminals encased in glue, you don't need a waterproof case ... quick and easy to disconnect the battery.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.27de1a5a90258fccc880a546d1956d56.jpeg

 

 

I'm installing a fish finder in my yak for the first time. I like the idea of this setup.  Can someone tell me what I need to look for when buying those trailer connectors? If you can link me to something, even better. I'm a total newb at this stuff.  

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55 mins ago, paulsoncall said:

I'm installing a fish finder in my yak for the first time. I like the idea of this setup.  Can someone tell me what I need to look for when buying those trailer connectors? If you can link me to something, even better. I'm a total newb at this stuff.  

A few things

1. Your local auto parts store will stock them, get the one with the thickest wire ... should be around $3 ea - get 3 sets, keep one as a spare.

2. Replace every 2-3 years.

3. Keep connectors smothered in dialectic grease.

4. Every couple of months scratch/file the connectors to scrape off accumulated corrosion (including the inside of the connectors) and then resmother with grease.

5. Trace the + & - wires carefully. My charger came with this type of connector, so I traced the positive from the charger to the positive terminal on the battery through the connectors ... and then replicate the +- wiring logic with the power cable to the FF head unit ... check (preferably using a voltmeter) 5 times before testing! 

6. Ensure the join between the FF power cable and the connector's wire is strong and as airtight as possible ... this join stays inside the hull and will be permanently exposed to a (salt)water environment.

Shout if you have any questions. Good luck.

 

 

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7 mins ago, Africaster said:

A few things

1. Your local auto parts store will stock them, get the one with the thickest wire ... should be around $3 ea - get 3 sets, keep one as a spare.

2. Replace every 2-3 years.

3. Keep connectors smothered in dialectic grease.

4. Every couple of months scratch/file the connectors to scrape off accumulated corrosion (including the inside of the connectors) and then resmother with grease.

5. Trace the + & - wires carefully. My charger came with this type of connector, so I traced the positive from the charger to the positive terminal on the battery through the connectors ... and then replicate the +- wiring logic with the power cable to the FF head unit ... check (preferably using a voltmeter) 5 times before testing! 

6. Ensure the join between the FF power cable and the connector's wire is strong and as airtight as possible ... this join stays inside the hull and will be permanently exposed to a (salt)water environment.

Shout if you have any questions. Good luck.

 

 

Appreciate the advice.  I think I found what I need.  

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Another pointer, don't use plain old copper wire for your cabling. Get some tinned copper wire, this will last for ever and won't give you problems after exposure to the marine environment.

 

Squid

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What's the best way to make the splice between the FF bare power cable ends and the bare ends of the trailer connector?

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1 hour ago, blackdogfish said:

What's the best way to make the splice between the FF bare power cable ends and the bare ends of the trailer connector?

Soldered, covered with oxiguard, heat shrink tube, hot glue (over the entire tube and some - for sealing, but more so to strengthen the connection), another heat shrink tube ... complete overkill I admit, but I have complete confidence in it.

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