Kent I

Wipe down after epoxy sealing?

31 posts in this topic

I read a number of posts about sealing with epoxy before I tried it myself, and all said you should wipe off the excess before the epoxy sets. Despite the difficulty of keeping the slots and holes clear, which is actually pretty easy, I've tried both and find that I get better results by brushing on a thin coat and putting the plug on the spinner. What am I missing? Is there a significant advantage to wiping off the sealer?

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I epoxy seal by heating the bare blank, coating with the epoxy, let sit for a couple minutes, and wipe surface and clean holes and slots before the stuff gets too sticky...the end grains will soak the stuff up much faster than the rest of the blank, and dry first. Leaving the epoxy on the blank doesn't work out as well for me, the holes and slots get munged up.

And epoxy is heavy, I think enough to soak in to a thin layer of the wood is enough, soaking in more just adds weight.But if your method produces the results you're looking for, have at it. Lots of ways to make fishy plugs

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^^^ same here.  I've found through all my trials that this process works the best for me. And it's a pain in the a$$ when the through holes are closed and you have to re-drill.  To me if you have to do this then you are loosing some of your "sealed" characteristics of the plug. 

 

Try it a few different ways and see what results you like the best. 

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I guess my method has been shaped by the fact that I haven't been working on any metal lips since I started using epoxy, and the plugs I've made are all fully sealed, so the only problem is the eye sockets, which aren't much of a problem. The advantages I get from it are that it covers sanding scratches and other minor imperfections, and it doesn't seem to add enough weight to affect the plug's performance (about .10 oz on a 1.4 oz plug). No doubt it will make a big difference when I get back to something with a lot of slots and holes.

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Not to hi-jack this thread but I think this question is related:  for those of you who seal with epoxy, how do you suspend it for drying?   A thru-wire is gonna get stuck in there pretty well, no?

Thanks

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I found the hotter I get the plug prior to the epoxy bath, the less I have to worry about excess epoxy on the surface of the plug body. Keeping it in a warm area after the bath also continues to help. After the epoxy sets if I have any build up or rough areas, I just hit it with a little steel wool.

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After I wipe down my epoxy sealer, I hang with through wire. Never had any issue with wire getting stuck, I use a pipe cleaner to run the epoxy down the thru hole, has always kept the hole open. 

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3 hours ago, Overmodulated said:

Not to hi-jack this thread but I think this question is related:  for those of you who seal with epoxy, how do you suspend it for drying?   A thru-wire is gonna get stuck in there pretty well, no?

Thanks

I hang the plugs and go back every 20-30 minutes to run a through wire back and forth through it.   Sometimes it only takes 1 or 2 times but it insures I do not have to redrill.  

 

The heating is trail and error.  I've heated plugs too hot and they have split.  

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14 hours ago, Overmodulated said:

Not to hi-jack this thread but I think this question is related:  for those of you who seal with epoxy, how do you suspend it for drying?   A thru-wire is gonna get stuck in there pretty well, no?

Thanks

'Probably" not...the wire breaks away pretty easily....I 'think' the epoxy bonds to the wood better than to the wire.....I never traveled thru a thru hole to check the seal-ed-ness, tho. I often bend a hook into each end of wire, hang and flip a couple of times after sealing.

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Heat the plug first , I use a syringe to shoot the epoxy down the through hole and back into the epoxy cup . Next I brush the warm plug with epoxy and set aside while you do the next ones . Wipe excess epoxy off with a paper towel put a piece of wire through and hang the plug for two days . Next I give the plug slight scrubbing with a scotch -brite pad them wash it in the sink and hang to dry .. I've been doing it this way for a long time and get excellent adhishion with my primer , paint and top coat .. 

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On 1/5/2018 at 10:04 PM, extreme fisherman said:

Heat the plug first , I use a syringe to shoot the epoxy down the through hole and back into the epoxy cup . Next I brush the warm plug with epoxy and set aside while you do the next ones . Wipe excess epoxy off with a paper towel put a piece of wire through and hang the plug for two days . Next I give the plug slight scrubbing with a scotch -brite pad them wash it in the sink and hang to dry .. I've been doing it this way for a long time and get excellent adhishion with my primer , paint and top coat .. 

What temp and for how long do you heat the plugs? Thanks 

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On 1/5/2018 at 10:15 AM, Steel Pulse said:

I quick micro waving works just as good 

I finally decided to try epoxy sealing on a maple plug. Messy for sure. I heated in microwave. I tried 30sec. It was HOT. pored down the wire hole and swivel hole then over the entire plug. redid the end grain as it sucked right in.

This didnt have any lead weights inside. I always have my weights in and sanded prior to sealing w/helmans or Val oil.  figure the lead would make a light show inside the microwave. How do u guys micro wood?

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No issues with lead for me but I only put belly wgts in. Tail wgts go in after but make sure you have enough room, clearance,  in hole to insert tail weights cause once that epoxy hardenes you aren’t jamming that tail wgt in without wrecking the plug. That goes for  all your hardware like grommets etc. make sure you have allowed for that. 

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