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Rough framing a 3 sided bathtub


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#16 Fly By Nite

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Posted July 30 2010 - 07:45 AM

[quote=GetDaGaff;7437848]

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Originally Posted by Fly By Nite
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No such thing as a 54" bathtub...who's going to take a bath in t here beetlejuice...60 is standard size and everything larger is $$$$.

IKOHLER K-745 Seaforth Bath with Left-Hand Drain
Straightforward styling and durable KOHLER Cast Iron construction ensure that the Seaforth bath will offer long-lasting beauty to your bathroom. This compact model is less than 5' long and features an integral apron for easy alcove installation, as well as a left-hand drain.
Available Finishes:
Biscuit - K-745-96
White - K-745-0


  • 54"L x 30-1/4"W x 14"H
  • Three-wall alcove installation
  • Designed for one-person bathing



Wow that is a tiny bath

#17 Fly By Nite

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Posted July 30 2010 - 07:51 AM


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Originally Posted by Snaps
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Call NIB.





Tony he knows...basically what he said was to frame the rough around the actual tub and that makes the most sense. actually my install instructions were correct and the tub is 3/8's smaller than what the install documents said to rough...so it should slide in there without trouble. I am not doing the installtion though. Building the alcove walls was a major pain when you're dealing wit twisted Doug firs...i haven't found any good ones since i started my project, been through around 60 studs so far.

#18 epanzella

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Posted July 30 2010 - 11:08 AM

Typical RO for a 60 inch tub is 60 1/4 max. I cut a stick 60 1/8 as use it as a gage when framing the opening. This leaves the tub nailing flange 1/8 to 1/4 proud of the framing, depending on it's thickness. You then run the tile backer (wonderboard, Durock,ect) down to the top of the nailing flange, NOT over it. This brings the wall surface out past the tub flange. Use tile adhesive to flash (fill in) the space between the bottom of the tile backer and the tub, burying the flange. Then you tile right down to the top of the tub, burying the flange in a second waterproof layer. This gives you flat, plumb walls without the bother and the compilications that arise when packing out all the walls. We use the same method whether he flange is on the tub itself or at the top of a wall surround. At least 90% of the time we're framing walls long before the fixtures arrive.

Ed Panzella


"BAITS MOTEL" - 2450 Maycraft Pilothouse


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#19 Snaps

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Posted July 30 2010 - 03:01 PM


Quote:








Originally Posted by Fly By Nite
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Tony he knows...basically what he said was to frame the rough around the actual tub and that makes the most sense. actually my install instructions were correct and the tub is 3/8's smaller than what the install documents said to rough...so it should slide in there without trouble. I am not doing the installtion though. Building the alcove walls was a major pain when you're dealing wit twisted Doug firs...i haven't found any good ones since i started my project, been through around 60 studs so far.




Good luck andy better you than me.

#20 gadwall8

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Posted July 30 2010 - 03:48 PM

Make no mistake, cbu, mastic, thinset, and grout are not water proof.





Either use a surface water proofing and plane the cbu inside the tub or seal your visiqueen to the flange and run your cbu to the top of the flange filling the gap behind the tile with 100 percent silicone so water can't wick into the cbu.






"I came into this world naked, screaming at the top of my lungs, and covered in someone else's blood. I got not problem leaving it that way."


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