Not sure how your basement is set up Steve, but if it can be run around the perimeter of the base of the wall and the covered with cement that is the standard route when possible. Costs more in copper but no trenching of the floor needed if the tank and the furnace are along the walls? 2 pipe overhead system is another way to go but it makes the pump at the furnace work harder. I installed tanks for 10 years....done more than a few. Oil safety valve is one way to go but a new line is really where the smart money is.
Heating Oil Supply Line Upgrade - Scam?
Posted April 28 2010 - 5:38 AM
Not sure how your basement is set up Steve, but if it can be run around the perimeter of the base of the wall and the covered with cement that is the standard route when possible. Costs more in copper but no trenching of the floor needed if the tank and the furnace are along the walls?
Unfortunately, the burner is smack in the middle of the basement. The tank is in the corner along the wall.
Posted April 28 2010 - 6:01 AM
I was wondering if you could place the new plastic tubing sheathed line in a trench and then recess a grate over the trench instead of refilling with concrete. No contact with cement, but not susceptible to physical damadge. Probablly over complicating the issue, but my old line did look crappy after 30 years in the slab. I was lucky that the boiler room is sectioned off and is against the wall in the boiler room so the new line just follows the wall.
Posted April 28 2010 - 6:54 AM
if the basement is unfinished you may be able to convert it to a 2 pipe system, come out of the top of the tank and run overhead to the burner.
I am in the heating business and allthough I work with gas 95% of the time. I do install the occasional oil furnace. I also reccomend the overhead two pipe system. It may work with one pipe, but two are more reliable. I also beleve that the copper pipe you should use has an orange plastic coating on it specifically for oil, which may not be nessisary for overhead use, but it can't hurt. If you have some basic knowledge of how to bend and connect copper to the tank and the gun, it should be DIY. I would prolly replace the fiomatic valve at the same time if it is at all suspect. Riddler seems to be the resident MA heating guy and he will prolly chime in here soon.
Posted May 14 2010 - 5:05 PM
its required by code and the EPA has mandated no grandfathering. simple job to replace line with kamco oil line that is already presleeved and although a line down on the floor is best, you could run it up, overhead and then down to the burner. just remember that ever foot of lift and 10 feet of horizontal run equate to 1 inch of vacuum. depends what fuel pump you have on what kind of vacuum it can create. also each foot of drop down offsets a foot of rise coming off the tank. if you decide to run it on the ground they make a chamfered aluminum channel the oil line can go in to protect it from crushing or trip hazard in high traffic areas
Posted May 14 2010 - 9:57 PM
concrete eats copper. pass the copper through a pvc conduit and your are good to go.
By the way, Mass is leading the league in sucky laws, no?
Posted May 15 2010 - 1:01 PM
I am no longer in the Oil Heating Industry. But when we ran oil lines, either above ground or below, we used copper roll tubing which came sleeved in a red vinyl material. It was called Enviro Tube, an can be capped in cement. Another way to go is to sleeve the oil line in 1/2 inch Liquid Tight Conduit. If you go with an overhead line you can run a single line an use a Tiger Loop at your burner, just remember your oil pump must be set up as a 2 pipe system(supply an return).I prefer using a Tiger Loop when I have a buried oil tank, or have to run an overhead oil line, with this device there is no return line to the oil tank,which means you are not constantly filtering oil and returning it to the tank,also one less line to worry about leaking. Hope this sheds some light .I only have experience in New York City.