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Kicker motor mounting?


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#1 NHAngler

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Posted March 24 2009 - 9:37 PM

Looking to add a kicker motor. Want to make sure i get the right size. I also want to be able to easily dismount it after a trip (not all).

I have about an 18 foot aluminum boat with an 8 foot wide transom. It would seem I have enough room to mount it to the transom off to the side of the bid motor then connect a steering arm.

However, I'm growing confused in the size of the shaft options out there. I see 15 and 20 being the most common. However, tonight I found one that I think measured 23". I'm not sure i measured it right though as I cannot find any 5HP Mecury 2 strokes that list a 23 inch shaft listed online.

Open to any suggestions on how do do this and most importantly how long the shaft of the motor needs to be? If I get one that is longer than needed will it affect my performance being too low beneath the planing pad?

Does anyone have any pictures of a similar boat rigged with a kicker that they dismount regularly?

Are the 4 strokes worth the extra $$?


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#2 ChoptankRunner

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Posted April 10 2009 - 9:58 PM

NH, I was hoping you'd get more replies as I'm gathering things to put a kicker on a project boat. I think there are so many variables to work with. I'd think look for a motor then try to match everything to it. Mine will run completely independant of my main, battery, steering, fuel, etc. This way any failures wouldn't affect my auxilary to get me in. Not the cheapest way to go but I'll be carrying the wife and kids on it. Look up some of the high thrust models of four strokes. They are more for blow boats but ideal for this to with charging systems and more torque in smaller outboards.



#3 moocks

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Posted April 10 2009 - 11:40 PM

There are a lot of variables but you will have to work them out one by one. Garelick makes several brackets like the 71091 or 71090 to chose from depending on the weight of the motor.

The vertical travels are 15 1/2" and 9 1/2" I believe.

You want the motors cavitation plate to be 1/2 to 1" below the hull surface. So you will have to do some measuring of your transom height to determine if you want a short shaft or a long shaft motor keeping in mind the 15 1/2' or 9 1/2 ' travel of the bracket.



Most motors are 20 or 25 " from the cavitation plate to the top of the mounting clamp bracket but I have never heard of 23"

If your not going to use a bracket all you have to worry about is the transom to bottom of hull measurement where you are planning to mount the motor. You optimally want the motor to be mounted with the cavitation plate height 1/2 to 1" below the hull. Not saying it can't be deeper it's just not optimal.



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#4 freebie

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Posted April 11 2009 - 5:40 PM

in an aluminum boat you also need to consider weight, depending on size, a four stroke can weigh alot more, consider where you transom sits now before adding more weight back there



#5 bassking77

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Posted April 11 2009 - 6:29 PM

I have a 9.9hp longshaft kicker mounted on a 20 ft lund alaskan.I mounted it directly on the transom.I leave it on all the time but I can easily take it off if I wanted.I didn't need a bracket because the longshaft reaches perfect.I went with a 2 stroke even though my main motor is 4 stroke.If my main engine has problems due to fuel I won't be running that kicker off the same tank of fuel I run it off a the small premix tank that I need for the 2 stroke.



#6 NHAngler

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Posted April 11 2009 - 8:54 PM

I have an 18 foot aluminum with a 90 for the big motor and an 8 foot wide beam. I troll for salmon in the spring a fair bit then turn to stripers and freshwater bass for the rest of the season. Once and a while I will still troll and again in the fall.
It was kind of like the 3 bears approach for me. Started with looking at a 9.9 four stroke. That sucker weighed in at 129 pounds. That was too big. Next I looked at a 7.5 4 stroke and that was not long enough to mount without a special mount. Also still was up there in weight.
Then I looked at (and bought) a 5 HP longshaft 2 stroke Mercury. Mounts easily next to the big motor and the propeller will be able to spin below the plane pad of the boat (which is what you want). It weighs only 45 pounds and has it's own tank mounted on top of it. Nice simple 2 stroke that is surprisingly not too loud. I have been going through it cleaning, painting the prop and LU, rebuilding the carb, spark plug, water pump impeller, etc. Only thing left is the auxilary steering linkage.
Good luck with this.
-Brian


Confidence catches fish! The rest of it is just there to keep us busy.

#7 ChoptankRunner

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Posted April 12 2009 - 10:54 AM

Brian, Linking it to the main would probably be the cheapest/easiest steering. There is a setup called an EZY-GLIDE. Its a tiller handle with teleflex type cable. Its what I bought for my kicker setup as I can put it farther back than my main steering and use it for running a trotline. Then if my main steering had an issue I could still get in. I'd imagine you could just unhook the tie bar and use the tiller handle on the motor. Panther Marine makes a electric remote steering with a salt or freshwater setup. Looks interesting and convenient but I'd think a mechanical setup suited me better.



#8 rjinhull

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Posted April 18 2009 - 10:29 AM

I have a 23’ and put a 9.9 kicker on it…..had the steering bar between the 225hp and the 9.9hp…..it was a pain as all I could do was steer …….no forward/reverse or speed control

Then I added a separate throttle control now its great all I have to do is drop it - hook up the steering bar - start it and go

Its well worth the separate control …and the cables disconnect very easy….
Takes longer to unscrew and remove the motor
The next step for me it to try to use a cable to connect the 2 motors that way I can get away from the bar (it rattles)

just my $.02 worth


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