Steve Schullery

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About Steve Schullery

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    Elite Member

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  • About Me:
    Retired chemistry prof.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Besides the obvious, Model A Ford, trains, & guitar
  • What I do for a living:
    retired. deal with Parkinson's

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    Male
  1. Hey, ho! I was wrong. It is possible to edit a title. Oh, well. Bonefishdick's cover photo still puts a smile on my face; now, if I could just remember why!
  2. Well, I'm sorry; I know it's kind of a cheap shot since it's impossible to edit the title of a thread you have started and Peter has covered it, but I just have to say, every time I see this title I think of bonefishdick's cover photo, with a smile on my face. For a token value-added contribution, I will mention that I've noticed my most successful striper fishing companions on the Cape seem to use only olive/white clousers, and I do okay using the Pink Wonder (pink/white) or Electric Chicken (pink/chartreuse) clousers. Nothing else about your tackle seems to much matter. My buddy who moved to Long Island several years ago also does well there with the PW.
  3. I worked at learning left handed casting for a while. The casting part was a piece of cake, but I was appalled at how useless my dominant hand was at line management!
  4. Here's a photo I found with Google. Similar to what you're doing, but both feet are supposed to be on the ground. Notice she is using some sort of brace to hold the upper bout well above the leg. Also, the instructions say the back and neck are supposed to be straight on y-axis with shoulders level and perpendicular on x-axis.
  5. Everyone here probably knows more about casting than I do, but FWIW here's the advice my first saltwater mentor (Ed Story, rip) gave me: If you keep your elbow below the level of your nipples, you won't hurt your shoulder (speaking for men, I presume) while casting. Trying to do that is probably the least of the reasons that I can't boom out the mighty casts like my new mentor, Dr. Patricelli, does. However, I'm curious about your guitar experience. I've heard that many players have to give up their jumbo style for the smaller, parlor style instruments in response to excruciating shoulder pain. Also, I understand that that goofy vertical-guitar positioning used by classical guitarists is more sustainable for the joints. I wonder if you've had any experience in those regards? I guess I've been lucky so far, considering that I've found a way to continue the shoulder abuse through the afternoon while waiting on the evening hatch and its associated casting abuse. But, I do wonder if I'm living in a temporary fool's paradise with my beloved J-45 rw and my lazy backporch posture technique.
  6. Anton, Welcome to the obsession! You probably should buy an intro book or two. There are tons out there, and I've never seen a bad one. Or, if you're of the younger persuasion, just use Google and U-tube. There's tons of free info and videos available. e.g., google "mending fly line". There's as many leader conventions as there are fishermen. They all catch fish, so don't fret over it too much. Many saltwater fishers use 6-9 feet of straight 30-lb mono. Others use some token tapering, like a few feet of 40-30-20 lb segments knotted together. Usually, delicate saltwater presentation with weighted wet flies is not a concern--exception maybe bonefishing on shallow flats. In contrast, for trout fishing the rule is that adjacent leader segments should differ by no more than 0.002" in diameter, and straight leader greatly offends the sensibilities of those brought up on trout. In any event, the one iron-clad rule is that the tippet end of your leader should be the weakest link, in case you get snagged or hook a monster and get broken off you won't lose the whole line. Fly lines have a 20-30 lb test core, so a 20 lb tippet is usually good. When worrying about leader-shy fish or needing small flies to have maximum action, some go as low as 8 or 10 lb tippet. To be prepared for toothy species, a "shock" or "bite" tippet is needed--usually 30 - 40 lb mono. I like 1 to 3 feet of 40 lb, 0.019" diameter fluorocarbon. I've yet to see any saltwater fish that are leader-shy of this, so I use it all the time. If you prioritize not losing your fly over maximizing strikes, a wire bite tippet is good. Most folks and fish don't like them. When using a bite tippet, the weakest preceding segment is referred to as the "class" tippet. When you're going after a record setting catch, you'll need to specify the leader strength category, or class, you are applying for (there are also class-tippet length requirements). Your tapered leaders are a good start, but they will soon get nibbled back from replacing flies or removing scraped damaged sections. THen you can just tie on a new tippet section. Eventually, you'll need a 2nd heavier segment added before the tippet. Use a loop-to-loop connection if you want to limit the nibbling, unless you can't shake a trout-fishing heritage and those loops offend you. The one application where tapered leaders are really worth the money is when fishing with lots of crap in the water that keeps hanging up on the knots. When you get to FL, you can have a hoot with ladyfish and Spanish mackerel, which will abrade or slice your tippet, respectively. I use the 40 lb fluoro, check it frequently, and hope for the best. The Spanish mackerel are definitely wire-shy. Have fun!
  7. Speaking as probably a marginally better physicist than caster, let me make some terminology points: Regarding your last question, wind resistance depends mostly on size and shape and slightly on speed. Mass is not DIRECTLY relevant. A thinner line is less wind resistant. The speed dependence has to do with whether air flow around the line is laminar or turbulent and the fact that frictional resistances generally vary with speed. I doubt if the latter dependences of resistance on speed are significant in our casting applications. However, the EFFECT of wind resistance is very much dependent on mass and speed. Greater mass provides greater momentum and greater ability to overcome wind resistance. Line speed determines the total amount of time that the wind resistance has to cause its effect. The latter point is similar to the business of faster bullets having flatter trajectories because gravity has less time to exert its effect. Finally, when using Newton's 2nd Law, F = m a, be careful not to confuse acceleration with speed (or velocity). Acceleration is the rate of change of velocity. An object's actual velocity will depend not only on how fast it accelerated, but for HOW LONG it accelerated. Thus, for example, it's conceivable that a slower casting stroke could generate greater terminal line speed simply because the acceleration (albeit reduced) occurred for a longer period of time. I remember puzzling over this when I bought my Sage SP rod, and read the claim that its "Smooth Performance" could generate greater line speeds than stiffer, faster rods.
  8. I wonder if anyone else has wondered why it makes sense that blue sunglasses should be especially good for use in blue-water fishing. Since the goal is the same-- to see THROUGH the water to what is IN the water--why should the recommended sunglass color be so different for fishing offshore versus onshore or inshore? Here's what I think. Water is blue because combination overtones of O-H bond stretching vibrations absorb infrared light near the red end of the visible spectrum. The tails of those absorption bands remove enough of the visible red light, to leave a blue-colored mix of wavelengths behind. If the water were perfectly free of suspended particulates, it would still look not only clear but also colorless from above, because the unabsorbed blue light would just keep on going down. (I've "seen" water like this in the Canadian Rockies.) However, normally some of the light bounces (scatters and reflects) off of suspended particulates so it returns up from the depths and be seen by observers above the surface. This scattering further shifts the spectrum toward the green. Obviously, to see something that's in the water--other than the water itself--it would help to filter out the light coming from the water itself while leaving the light that is being reflected off of the fish or line or bottom or whatever it is you're trying to see. There are two ways to do this. The simplest way is to pass the light through clear but colored glass or plastic lens that will preferentially absorb the blue: yellow, red, or amber lenses would all do the trick, although, for me, amber has the least disorienting consequences. Or, with more technology, you could pass the light through a lens that has a surface coating on it that preferentially reflects the blue. Sunglasses using either approach achieve the same end, although, paradoxically, the sunglass lenses appear to have different colors! This, of course, is because when you look at the reflective sunglasses you are seeing the blue light that is being reflected away from the wearer's eyes, but when you look at the ordinary sunglasses you are seeing amber light such as is transmitted to the wearer's eyes. People looking through those blue reflective sunglasses are not seeing a blue world, and truly-blue sunglasses--made with blue tinted lenses--would be terrible. If you're offshore dealing with the intense blue of very deep water and probably lots of very bright sunny and blues skies all around, it would make sense to step up your game to the blue-reflective style, or better yet, use amber lenses that also have the reflective coating. But, either way, this is the answer to the paradox of why people needing to deal with excessive amounts of blue light would wear "blue" sunglasses. Of course, it's also very helpful to use lenses that preferentially filter out the horizontally polarized light that is characteristic of glaring surface reflections. But that's another story, as is the business of what color lures show up best.
  9. Boy, there sure is a lot of variation seen if you google "juvenile seabass". I guess I would just tie on a pink/white clouser and call it good. But, I guess that's what I would do anyhow. It also works if you want to catch a seabass.
  10. Contact Louie DeNolfo, aka Louiethefish, whom you can google. He used to guide in Hawaii and now divides his time between there and New Zealand, and supports himself largely by selling wonderful bone or shell carvings. Be prepared for a really interesting character. There's actually a resident population of LARGE bonefish at the left end of Waikiki that you can chum up and feed like carp. They are selective for white bread; whole wheat doesn't work. It's a no-fishing zone, of course. Louie's son, Joaquin, does the guiding, these days.
  11. Brian, Ed Story (RIP) was my original saltwater mentor. I would guess that the fly you refer to was tied with their salt-and-pepper flash. Ed did indeed make great claims for it. My buddy and I dutifully tied up a bunch of them before our first saltwater outing; it was years before either of us ever were able to catch a single fish on it--go figure! Gradually, I reduced the full row in my fly box I had allocated to the pattern down to the one fly that you can see in the center-right of my box shown in comment #124 that I still carry out of respect for Ed. By contrast, his Sand Shrimp pattern--the red/black striped tail pattern in #124--worked pretty well.
  12. Brian, The lower flies are my little mackerel attempts. Probably should have added some vertical stripes. From top are Pink Wonder, Electric Chicken, olive/white. The other two guys on the boat tried several other patterns, all of which had worked previously for them. In the past, the EC had worked well for me when the stripers were feeding on schools of little stuff.
  13. It's a deal. I should warn you that my flies anymore are somewhat embarrassing, especially regarding durability. My Parkinson's tremor is activated by loading the muscles in my fingers, preventing me from nice tight wrapping like I would want. I've got to time my tying time to too-brief windows of peak meds effectiveness. Steve
  14. My 2nd most favorite salt water fly for (if I dare say it) Florida is an all-Krystal Flash fly developed by Tony Petrella (RIP) called the Commissioner, or Commissioner Johnson. Many years ago, Tony tried to start a "favorite flies" thread on the old FFF bulletin board, offering to go first. He described the Commissioner and one other pattern. I responded with the PInk Wonder, and, unfortunately, that was about the end of the thread. Some years later, i saw one of Tony's patterns in a Siesta Key fly shop, and discovered my interpretation of Tony's instructions was not real accurate, but by then I had had so much success with my version, I stuck with it. As I tie it, it's sort of a Crazy Charley style clouser tied with a stacked wing of gold/copper/gold Krystal Flash, gold flash wound for body, black hour glass eyes, red thread. It's extremely durable, and I switch to it after locating a school of toothy fish with the PW. However, unlike the PW, it has been absolutely useless in fresh water and on the Cape. Otherwise, it is extremely effective. I've caught about as many species in FL with it as I have with the PW. Lefty describes very similar patterns in his Saltwater Flies book, including an all-gold pattern. When I first discovered it, I thought I had discovered the Holy Grail, and excitedly tied up some all-Krystal Flash Pink Wonders, expecting to get the best of both worlds--fish attraction and durability. Sadly, it was not to be; neither the all-Flash PW nor any other color variations I tried worked. Here's a representative shot of my Florida fly box.
  15. 27conch, Actually, I'm an eye sceptic too, but there's no doubt how effective they are with fishermen! However, if I were an argumentative type of person assigned to argue the case for eyes, I would suggest that the best jigs have black thread heads--like bodacious pupils. I have no idea whether it's true or not, but that's what I'd say. For a long time it was conventional wisdom that redfish have that "eyespot" back near their tail to trick predators into attacking them at the wrong end. I understand that biologists now believe that this thinking is bunk--sorry, I don't recall details.