Steve Schullery

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About Steve Schullery


  • About Me:
    Retired chemistry prof.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Besides the obvious, Model A Ford, trains, & guitar
  • What I do for a living:
    retired. deal with Parkinson's

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  1. The answer to your question is "yes." When you think you've got it down and want to test yourself, go out to Silver Creek, Idaho. Take a bunch of #26, 28, & 32 flies and some 7x tippet. Be gentle!
  2. Thanks for the link, Graeme. For what it's worth, I'll mention the variability in diameter of fluorocarbon with price. For many years I was puzzled why my buddy using cheap 30 lb fluoro had about the same bite off frequency as I did with premium 40 lb fluoro bite tippets. Finally, I got around to comparing diameters with my micrometer--they were the same, which explained everything! I had settled on my preference because of knot tying. I like the 3 1/2 turn clinch knot for tying on my saltwater flies, and found that the more-flexible 40 lb. 0.021" diameter premium fluoro was about at my comfort limit. Our bite-off concern in those days was Florida stuff: Spanish mackerel, ladyfish, occasional snook, little bluefish, ... I was fascinated by how you could tell by the fray what you had lost. Spanish gave a clean slice; ladyfish looked like a rasp had been taken to the line; bluefish reminded me of a cheese grater; sharks often left the head of whatever fish you thought you were catching. Also, in case anyone is interested, that number in a nylon's name (e.g, nylon 6, nylon 12) indicates the number of carbons in the monomer used to make the polymer. The higher the number, the closer the material would be to polyethylene, which has an all-carbon chain, accounting for its relatively lower water absorption. Chemically, nylons are related to nature's polyamides, proteins, such as hair and silk. Using the nylon numbering system, proteins would be numbered 2, which explains the extra attention required by silk fly lines and gut leaders, and why humidity causes bad hair days,.
  3. Here's what some of the Yo-Zuri hype stated: "Yo-Zuri Hybrid is the first and only fishing line that molecularly bonds nylon and fluorocarbon during extrusion." I'm not sure exactly what is meant by "molecularly bonds". Normally, extrusion does not involve new chemical bond formation, just melting, squeezing, mixing, shaping, cooling, etc. That would result in what's called a blended polymer, as opposed to a true co-polymer, which has a mix of different monomer types all covalently linked in the same polymer chains. I also recall that some companies a while ago were selling nylon line with a fluoro coating. All of this, of course, was an effort to get the best of both worlds, or at least to allow such a claim. In any event, the reviews were all over the map as far as the quality and performance of Yo-Zuri went--as reviews tend to be. What jumped out at me was the frequency of comments about its terrible abrasion resistance.
  4. It was Yo-Zuri who made the hybrid, aimed at the spinning line market. Discontinued a few years ago, I believe.
  5. Yes, I believe so. I forget the model number, but here's an outside shot of it. Your concern about adequate cleaning is wise.
  6. I'm here to testify that casual rinsing under a garden hose after each use is not necessarily sufficient. This Orvis reel, which felt lovely in the hand, went to pot in alarmingly short order.
  7. Geez, I hope to never hear an authentic damper!
  8. For what it's worth, my 6wt TiCr works well with any 7wt line I've tried and the 200 grain SA Streamer Express, and is usable with 6wt and 8wt lines.
  9. I was just thinking the same thing. Looks like it could be a long winter.
  10. Oooh, neato! So, Bill and I have replaced that row of bird heads you used to hide among? I'm honored. Steve
  11. OSHA has weighed in on resistance to cutting and abrasion in the context of protective clothing. Although there is a standard procedure for measuring cut resistance, it's designed for use with fabric, not a single fiber. Also, as has been noted above, abrasion is apparently sort of an ill defined thing. Although cutting may be involved in abrasion, there's more to it, even to the extent that abrasion appears to be unquantifiable (which makes it almost like we don't know--and maybe can't know--precisely what we're talking about!) Here's a bit of what Googling turned up on the OSHA website: In general there are two types of cut hazards: 1) Clean, sharp edge cuts, such as knife blades and clean edge sheet glass. 2) Abrasive cut hazards. These include: rough edge sheet metal; stamped or punched sheet metal; and rough edged sheet glass. Clean Sharp Edge Hazards Our industry currently measures cut resistance for clean sharp edges with the Cut Protection Performance Test (CPPT) on ASTM Standard F1790-97. This test measures the weight (in grams) required to cut through a glove on a 25 millimeter pass using a razor-sharp blade. ... Abrasive Cut Hazards At present, there is no test to measure abrasive cut resistance in gloves. The ASTM F1790-97 standard is often used as a reference point, however, we must keep in mind that this standard tests with a razor-sharp blade. Abrasive cut hazards do not just cut, they tear and abrade and consequently require a different type of glove for protection.
  12. abrasion versus laceration, perhaps?
  13. Peter,. I think the simple test procedure in the video that started this thread permits the abrasion test you want. Just change the weights used. However, resistance to slicing by a razor or knife would not qualify as abrasion. I think that would be called something else.
  14. I think that Logan may be one of those special cases whose test data almost don't matter; he's just a good fisherman who is going to catch fish no matter what. Hardness does indeed relate to brittleness and shock breakage. In my former life, one of my first jobs was in the Polymers Department of the GM Research Division, where we were laboring to discover the perfect plastic composition for dashboards. I spent my days measuring hardness, brittleness, stretch modulus, and impact resistance, looking for something that would neither soften and sag in the sunlight nor shatter upon a sharp impact. What you say about abrasion resistance relating to hardness makes perfect sense, except I'm not sure it's right. I recall reading other test results several years ago in which Hard Mason was shown to have terrible abrasion resistance. My hunch is that the problem relates to what happens at the microscopic level once that first nick occurs. In a soft material, that may be the end of it, whereas in a hard material the nick may constitute the start of a crystalline like fracture that will propagate effortlessly through the material. Also, some speculate that the stretchy material can move out of the way of a potential abrader. In any event, here, for extra credit, is a photo of me in my aforementioned former life at GM--in case there was some doubt about whether I ever had hair.
  15. I saw some tests several years ago that showed that original Stren was distinctly superior to a whole bunch of others, including all of the various newer Stren incarnations. There for a while, I was reloading my tippet spools from a stash of Stren spinning line spools, but then I got too lazy and resumed just buying the tippet spools like everyone else. Also, concerned about the mono's shelf life, although the chemist in me is convinced that if it's stored in the house, it lasts a long, long time.