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rucker365 reacted to a post in a topic: School Me On Sebile Stick Shads
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bassmaster reacted to a post in a topic: tail loop
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So do you wrap underneath towards the body and then back out towards the tail, or does your tag end terminate closest to the tail grommet? I’ve seen some Aussie and Japanese builders do an initial wrap towards the tail and then wrap back out towards the loop like this guy (Bommieknocka)
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Dan_evan1 reacted to a post in a topic: School Me On Sebile Stick Shads
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bassmaster reacted to a post in a topic: tail loop
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I’ll put something together for you BM.
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Can you post a picture of your tail wraps on your tuna stuff? Curious to see your end result as there’s quite a few different variations from Aussie, Japan, Kiwi, and US builders
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Yea I leave the split ring on the nose, and connect with a TA clip simply because in my mind the split ring with it’s thicker diameter than the line tie wire is less likely to ever work its way off the clip.
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Dan_evan1 reacted to a post in a topic: School Me On Sebile Stick Shads
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You do have to account for the extra wire weight and that wrap is usually something I save for pencils, Polaris poppers, or when I’m using 2-2.4mm wire for bigger species that will eventually work a tail wrap away from the plug. All other plugs get a traditional wrap….and the weight really depends on the wire thickness, but with 0.062” I’ve found it can add up to 0.5-0.6 oz. As I don’t really fish pencils with a rear treble anymore it’s not a necessity as much as it’s just become a thing I do differently. edit: here’s another method of tail wrapping that you can certainly take pieces from. Those Aussies make some quality, GT ready plugs and rarely do you get to see someone working with hard 2 mil wire
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Two totally different looks from a traditional glider to the stick shadd. Congrats on making a lipless plug that the fish obviously agree with! That’s no easy feat and can take quite a few rounds of testing until you get it right, even with knowledge of how to find specific gravity, balance points, shape etc. RG and Fatty both make a floating glider that I’m envious of in terms of action and love to throw.
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Lose the rear hook for a flag, throw the heavy single treble on the belly canal rigged. The lack of a rear hook will free up the tail and the heavy canal rig will change the pivot point of the plug forward towards the midline completely changing the action to a rod thumping hard kick. It’s not like a glider, and will track straight with minimal side to side movement. I like to carry both “traditional” swimming gliders (Mikes, RG, Fattys, and my own) as well as the stick shadd.
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Notice how the hook hangers on the 182 vs the 210 are different? I wonder if that has any structural integrity effect. Love the mackerel blues pattern.
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Dan_evan1 reacted to a post in a topic: School Me On Sebile Stick Shads
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Dan_evan1 reacted to a post in a topic: School Me On Sebile Stick Shads
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Love a solid tailwrap, and like you I struggled to find my method and to create a tailwrap capable of holding up to 300lb BFT….I’ve incorporated it into some striper plugs using 1.6mm. but this type of wrap, while extremely tight, is wildly unnecessary for striper and requires 2 interlocking nose grommets otherwise it will split just the one grommet as its locked down followed quickly by the plug. The entire plug has to be built to handle the lack of “give”, play, and zero rotation. There’s something to be said about a good old fashioned, tight, but not unmovable tail wrap using the minimum number of wraps to lock it in.
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The unique taper of the “power keel” is a massive component to the lures stability and instability, as it’s the balance between those two thats a crucial part to getting a lipless “stickbait” style plug to swim.
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Stick Shadd fun fact. Sebile did make a “tuna grade” version of the stick shadd marketed overseas under the “Salt & Sun” Series. The 210 version is an absolute monster compared to its North American counterpart. The lure is internally gusseted and filled with foam, and out of the box comes with what has to be 250lb class split rings doubled on each hook hanger to reduce binding, and Owner ST-66 trebles. When I came across a small batch from an oversea seller, I thought I’d hit the motherload with a 210 Sinking model in the extremely rare “mackerel blues” pattern. At 7 3/8 oz of distributed weight, the 210 model has always been a pitch I like to have when pogies are around. It’s by no means the funnest plug to throw for extended periods of time but if you have the stick, it will put a very big profile out there and really separates those bigger fish from the school. Despite this “Salt & Sun” 210 model listed at 8 oz (which is already pushing the limit of what I’m willing to throw), this thing shows up and weighs well over NINE oz (9.37 oz to be exact in completely stock trim). So it would have been cool if we got to experience this variation of the line up in the US and I’ve seen them over the years pop up, but holy crap, nearly 9.4 oz is a bit spicy for the old shoulder, so in the house it stays. Just wanted to show you guys a different variation for those who may not have been aware.
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Depending on rod angle and angler input it will usually dive between 6-12” but you can certainly tweak it and make it have a more traditional slashing movement on top or WTD. Here is an old “Hunt For Big Fish” video with Larry and Patrick and you can see all the ways Larry tweaks a stock setup stick shadd.
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Fishing a weed line with the 182 floater, using a pause followed by a hard crank at the line, creating an erratic flutter.
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Dan_evan1 started following School Me On Sebile Stick Shads
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I use the 182 floating almost exclusively at the canal (80% or the time) with the other 20% being the 182 sinking, 155 sinking, and 210 sinking. The 182 floater has action that is incredibly good, much better than the sinking and way better than the fast sinking that gets dulled down due to the entire keel of the lure being filled with lead. The 182 floater can be thrown and work flawlessly regardless of current if rigged correctly. Most of the guys I see fishing the stick shadds at the canal use the 182 sinking/fast sinking or the 155 fast sinking. I’ve thrown stick shadds since their release in 2010 when they were only available in floating models, and the biggest problem I see with guys who try a 182/155 floater in the canal is they will remove the stock hooks and canal rig the lure (let’s say a 182 floater) with a split ring of their choice, swivel, and either a cut 4/0 4x VMC or another split ring to a 4/0 4x VMC. All the YouTube tutorials recommend this type of rigging setup and I disagree with it all day, especially on the floater. That is the reason the floater isn’t used by so many at the canal, is guys often find it tumbling out of the water with the setup I just mentioned, and when you add heavy current to the equation it’s even worse. When removing the stock hooks in favor of a canal rigged setup on a floating stick shad, the most important thing to remember is that you’ve removed the weight and drag of the entire rear hook, and that needs to be accounted for in your canal rig, including the teaser. The stock hooks and rings on a 182 stick shad weigh 12.81g (give or take). A canal rig setup using a cut 4/0 4x VMC, Spro #1 330lb swivel, and one of the original split rings off the stick shadd weighs only 6.47 grams. Place the lure at rest in the water and you will notice the back sticks up and out significantly compared to the stock configuration. This is simply not enough weight or drag to retain the stock characteristics, let alone swim well in current unless angler skill and input is on point. And remember it’s not just dead weight you’re making up for, it’s the drag of that rear treble as well. I’ve tried every canal rig combination known to man at this point and for the floating 182 stick shadd. I’ve come down to 3 basic setups that I use exclusively that keeps the floating 182 stick shadd anchored in the current, action is incredibly good, and the lure will not blow out of the water. Setup 1: Cut 5/0 6x VMC, 1/0 Spro swivel, 150lb Decoy #8 split ring (split ring choice here isn’t as important, I just find the slightly heavier Decoy #8s to be the strongest/smallest diameter 150lb class standard double ring I’ve ever used) - Weight = 10.23g / with bucktail flag and 4h rasco split ring = 11.53g Setup 2: Cut 5/0 Mustad 9430DS 5x, Spro 1/0 swivel, 150lb Decoy #8 split ring = 11.86g / with bucktail flag and Rasco 4h ring = 13.17g ***This is the setup I will use if the spot, moon phase, current speed dictates the need for the additional ballast as this is the heaviest rig of the 3*** Setup 3: ***This is for people who aren’t comfortable cutting hooks, especially 6x VMCs. I personally cut my 6x VMCs using the cutters on a pair of AFW or Jinkai crimping pliers and never experience a broken hook eye or failure when connected to fish. I cut the hook a touch higher up the eye, bend the eye with any pliers, close, apply nail polish, and not one failure has occurred.*** 5/0 6x VMC, Spro #1 or #2 swivel (the #2 will give an overall length within a millimeter of the length of setup 1) two Spro #8 150lb split rings - Weight = 10.01g / with bucktail teaser and Rasco 4H split ring = 11.26g I’ve tried using a 6/0 Mustad 9430 DS which is just an absurdly heavy hook and actually sank the plug fully rigged with bucktail flag etc. I’ve used all the tuna grade trebles and if you want to spend that kind of loot the two best hooks to use are Owner ST-66 or the BKK 6066-5x as they still have enough vertical orientation of the hook points and aren’t Iike the BKK Raptor Z 4x hooks that have tons of inward flare and short shanks. I know this sounds mental to have taken this to this point, but to me the floating stick shadd destroys the other models in terms of action and is worth using if you’ve never tried. Compared to a 9” Magic Swimmer canal rigged the same way the stick shadd seems to keep fish buttoned up substantially better. I know the trend when fishing the canal seems to be “Fast Sink the World” and when it comes to most plugs (like the 9” magic swimmer) I throw the fast sink first generation model almost exclusively due to it holding in the current better with the extra 0.75 oz. If you’ve never tried any of the above canal rig setups on a 182 floating stick shadd I encourage you to give it a try (don’t forget your bucktail teaser as it all adds up to drag+weight), and I think you will find a new pitch that you can throw and be wildly surprised at the action and results you get. Here are some pictures of the 3 rigs in order from left to right (Setup 1, 2, and 3) as well as the size/density of the bucktail teaser, and the setup I use the most (Setup 1) rigged on the 182 floater that has accounted for hundreds of canal stripers. Cheers boys.
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I have both the 2019 14k Stella and the 2020 14k Saltiga. My thoughts so far: Daiwa has made big improvements to their drag systems on their flagship reels like the Saltiga. No longer do you get that initial inertia “yank” before the drag starts to slip, and much like the Stella you will feel a series of nearly unnoticeable micro clicks during those times where you’re putting pressure on a fish that is tiptoeing right around your drag setting. For tarpon I could see this being huge, as every time you require that initial inertia to get the drag to start slipping it’s just potentially creating a bigger hole in the fish’s mouth, as well as creating unnecessary shock load in the entire connection. And beyond that the sound of the drag is magical. Daiwa in the 10 and 14k size also has a backup mechanical anti-reverse if the main anti-reverse clutch were to fail and with the Shimano Stella that isn’t a feature offered until you reach the 18k & 20k. Cranking power in a HG style reel. The typical debate over cranking power with a “power” or low gear spinning reel vs. the line recovery speed of a HG (high speed) reel has really been narrowed with the new Saltiga design. Even the 6.2:1 14000 has substantially more power and requires less elbow grease to turn a stubborn fish compared to the old models. I don’t know if this is related to the bigger gear set in the monocoque body, just my real world feedback. Casting. As a huge Saltiga fan, (mainly because they always had such a solid feel to them) previous generations were clearly well below the Stella equivalent model in terms of how line came off the spool during the cast and the speed and smoothness of that line leaving the reel. The new Saltiga doesn’t have such an aggressive top lip to the spool as it’s predecessors and casts arguably just as well, if not better than the Stella. As far as performance, I haven’t had any mag seal issues or leaking yet, and I’ve caught dozens of bluefin tuna up to roughly the 80-100lb mark. The new Saltiga model doesn’t even come close to the old model in terms of line capacity (if you were to compare the old 5000/5500 expedition to the new 10k/14k or the old 6500/8000 dogfight (or expedition) compared to the new Saltiga 18k/20k. The Saltiga is easily the smoothest turning 10k and up sized reel on the market thanks to mag seal. Aesthetically I think the new Saltiga is not even remotely close to as good looking as the old expedition and the knob feels and looks like crap (again my opinion). The 2019 14k Stella is honestly just a spruced up 2013 model with the heat sink drag deal slapped on and you could fish either reel in top condition blindfolded and have difficulty discerning the difference between the two, where the Saltiga has made major, structural and functional changes that translate into real world performance. I do think if your trip is one where you will be using these reels and then shelving them for quite a bit of time, then something like the 10-14k Saragossa would be a great reel that you wont feel bad beating on and will accomplish everything you need. The Daiwa Certate SW has that stout Daiwa feel to it, but isn’t nearly as smooth as the Saltiga model for model. I can’t speak on its performance as I’ve only test cast the 14k. I think it all comes down to user preference at the end of the day. Whether you like the refined feeling of the Stella or the stout feeling of the Saltiga. Either way, just some information from the real world testing I’ve done with both reels over the last couple years and I’m certainly no Alan Hawk so fwiw I hope you find the right tool for the job and have a successful trip.