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About rathrbefishn

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  1. I replaced my furnace/airhandler/AC a couple of summer ago. I did a fair bit of research and here are a few quick thoughts. As others have said, the price can vary widely , even within the same region. Some of that is due to big vs little contractor, but there is also a lot to influence of the system type. You will pay much more for some manufacturers than others- sometime it because of extra features, sometimes I think it is for the name. The SEER rating will impact price- this is a pay me no or pay me later thing. Higher efficiency systems cost more but save on electrical. The SEER rating may also impact federal/state or power company rebates. These can really reduce your costs, so do your homework and make sure in advance that the system is eligible if you are counting on the rebate. For me, I wasn't eligible for a power company rebate as the combination of inside and outside wasn't yet on some national accrediting list whose name escapes me-even though it was a manufacturer match pair- it was a timing thing. It was still enough of a break for me that it was overall a better deal, but keep your eyes open. One thing I took away from a lot of reading and discussions was that whether you buy a high-end Trane with all the new bells and whistles or a lower end unit ( which BTW are all still WAY more efficient than they used to be), getting a good installation is critical. There are some rules of thumb that might work some of the time, probably most adequate when it is a replacement. For a new install, it's worth making sure that whatever you install is sized correctly and installed correctly. BTW- while a lot of us have bandaided an old unit and gotten almost 20 years from one, the current thinking is that they last 10-15 years. Heat pumps and furnaces longer.
  2. Do you know if he tested draw after he replaced the capacitor? I would think that would be the indicator of whether or not the breaker is bad or if it drawing too much current.
  3. Unlike wine, these AC issues never seem to get better with time. If i recall, there are some good articles online (Handyman??) on how to test some of the basic things with a multimeter ( eg capacitor, maybe resistance across contactor, etc) but you do need to know what you are doing. BTW, in my experience, these things never go bad at a good time ( on a cool Monday vs the start of along weekend). However, I have had more than one repair that was quick fix with parts a repair person carried on his truck.....and I've had repairs when I had to wait a long hot week for a part. Good luck with it. BTW- breakers also do sometimes go bad.
  4. I'm no AC expert but have had enough problems over the years to know that it could be minor, could be major. Dirty coils or filter would kick up amperage, could be something simple like capacitor, could be more complicated like low refrigerant or a fan or compressor going bad. If you havent' had a PM in a while, it would be worth the cash....but do start with the filter. Dirty filter this time of year can cause freezeup and other fun stuff
  5. If you are not sure if it is the caulk or something more serious, you might want to fill the tub and let if just sit. If something behind the wall is leaking, I'd think you see it on the floor.
  6. Haven't done it, but my late mother-in-law had multiple layers of carpet on the deck on her house. She'd just tack on a new layer when the old one got worn- 2 or 3 layers I think. Eventually deck rotted and some of us wondered if it was because the carpet retained too much moisture. I know there are a number of different types of I/O carpet- some probably dry more readily than others. Just something to consider. Others have done this i am sure
  7. Don't overlook refurbished ones off Amazon or elsewhere. I bought a Porter Cable roofing nalier last year- refurbed with a one year warranty- for just about what a Harbor Freight one cost. Was much lighter then the HF one. Similarly bought a refurbed Bostitch framgn nailer off of the auction site. I will say that I have several of HF air staplers and a pin nailer and they have worked well. just dont' cheap out and use their fasteners is what i was told.
  8. Ozium air sanitizer- sell it on Amazon, auto stores, etc. i think it binds up odors- sort of like a super Fabreze Also- If it is bad, a shampoo of the carpet and upholstery- even wiping down with a soapy rag will do wonders. They sell all kinds of spray on auto upholstery cleaner at the parts stores. Typically spray on and blot off. That should remove or break down vs mask the odors
  9. Did my own system when I lived in FL years ago. Sandy soil made the digging reasonably easy...but it is a lot of work. Not difficult and you can plug away at it piecemeal. Buy a trenching shovel- that a a mattock make it easy in good soil. As some else said, spend some time on the design. Bigger pipe is better especially if you might later add more heads. I didn't have the ideal layout WRT lawn vs flower/plant beds but made t work just fine - I had oversized the pipe and added on when i added new flower beds and shrubs. There a/ were a lot of online material around the designing. Internal diameter of the pipe makes a big difference as far as flow and frictional losses. It and cost are why some use thinwall PVC for the lines. Bigger the pipe support more heads and longer runs. You will readily find list of how much flow and how many heads you can support with different pipe sizes. And then design conservatively so you can add more in the future. If you are going to be in the house for a while and the local geology and permits support, consider if you might add an irrigation well either now or down the road and locate the system to accommodate. You can't do it everywhere and it is an investment. However, 1) you will get a lot of water from many wells and 2) you don't need to pay the sewage bill (assuming municipal sewer) on what quickly amounts to a lot of water. If all the zones are "home run" to the same source, you might be able to use a cheap non-electrical valve system that works by cycling between zone by turning the pump on and off. These were pretty bullet proof- I don't know if they are still used. I'm now in a place with Rock and clay which make a DIY install a nightmare and I miss having a sprinkler system every summer
  10. I like the epoxy idea. But keep in mind that at least the ones i have looked into will require varnish over it. UV resistance is the issue if I recall. But looks great and lasts
  11. I used a mixture of linseed oil, turpentine (or maybe it was mineral spirits) and beeswax. About 1/3 of each. It was recommended on some woodworking forums. Yes, a workbench will get dings and stains. But a quick coating of this works well and you can refresh it periodically. The advantage of a coating is that it makes it easy to clean and glue just pops off once it dries. Some refresh it annually but it will depend on use- mine has gone a few years between recoats and still looks great. Didn't stop a stain from dark shellac but it's still slick...but not too slick to be a good work surface. I'd probably find a way to permanently mount vise just to make it super stable. I have a wood vise on the front corner of mine and then have mounted grinders and sharpeners to small wood bases that I lock into vise as needed
  12. Clever- nice trick
  13. Yep- that's the way to do it. FYI, if you already have fiberglass up there, take a peek at it and look for where it is discolored- That will show you if you need to pay extra attention for a leaky spot. All that dust that gets sucked in with the cold air will show up on the pink fiberglass. Really does make a big difference. Not sure why my local code doesn't' require it with new construction.
  14. This area can be pretty leaky. Not a clue on what code requires, but what was recommended to me was to seal up the seams between joists/ rim boards. I used spray foam and then stuffed the area with fiberglass. I understand caulk might be used also but the foam penetrate the cracks and is pretty easy to use.. In any case, it's an important step- fiberglass alone doesn't' do a great job when wind sneaks through a small crack. Spray foam over the entire area would be pricey but work well. Could also cut pieces of foam board and seal the edges with great stuff foam. I think Handyman magazine did an article on this a few years ago. Leaks in this area caused me to deal with frozen pipes more than once until I sorted it out. It's amazing how much cold air will sneak through a small crack.
  15. Yes- the laminates can sound somewhat hollow and noisy. I have heard it best not to skimp on the underlayment. The better stuff has more sound deadening capacity