rathrbefishn

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About rathrbefishn

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  1. Yep- that's the way to do it. FYI, if you already have fiberglass up there, take a peek at it and look for where it is discolored- That will show you if you need to pay extra attention for a leaky spot. All that dust that gets sucked in with the cold air will show up on the pink fiberglass. Really does make a big difference. Not sure why my local code doesn't' require it with new construction.
  2. This area can be pretty leaky. Not a clue on what code requires, but what was recommended to me was to seal up the seams between joists/ rim boards. I used spray foam and then stuffed the area with fiberglass. I understand caulk might be used also but the foam penetrate the cracks and is pretty easy to use.. In any case, it's an important step- fiberglass alone doesn't' do a great job when wind sneaks through a small crack. Spray foam over the entire area would be pricey but work well. Could also cut pieces of foam board and seal the edges with great stuff foam. I think Handyman magazine did an article on this a few years ago. Leaks in this area caused me to deal with frozen pipes more than once until I sorted it out. It's amazing how much cold air will sneak through a small crack.
  3. Yes- the laminates can sound somewhat hollow and noisy. I have heard it best not to skimp on the underlayment. The better stuff has more sound deadening capacity
  4. Two completely different animals. The laminate will go in much faster but it just look like wood. If the finish gets chipped or scratched, there is nothing to do but replace. These tend to be a bit slicker than wood and usually quite a bit cheaper. Installation is a floating floor. I have seen some that look pretty good, granted they aren't real wood. Overall the better ones hold up pretty well to scratches. Pretty easy DIY effort unless you have lots of tricky angles, closets, etc. Even then not too bad if you are patient Lay down underlayment then most are snap together and then add shoe molding around perimeter. Prefinished hardwood is a full nail down or glue down installation, Can be sanded down and refinished a few times in the future. Prefinished reportedly scratches less than finished on site but a lot has to due with the underlying wood hardness vs the finish, Installation is more effort but still DIY friendly. Make sure you acclimate materials and install the right way to deal with seasonal movements. Considered to be more high end than laminate. In between are some engineered hardwoods that can also sometimes be installed as floating floors. Usually can only refinish I think once if the top layer is thick enough.
  5. The ioe is beautiful. A friend used it also- had horror stories about having to drill pilot holes for each screw. Broke off countless drill bits. But is will last forever....
  6. You should consider new tires for the trailer. If they have been sitting around for 10+ years they really should be replaced even if stored up on blocks. They just dry rot over time. They might work fine or they might blow out....always in the worst place at a bad time....
  7. I consider myself to be very handy but am NOT a roofer and until a couple of years ago the biggest roof I had done was a shed. But I have been fortunate to be able to help on several volunteer projects over the last 2 years and have done 3 bigger roofing jobs- one just few room addition, and the other two ranch homes of probably 12-1800 sq feet. I don't recall how many square they were. So that's my background as you consider this feedback. Unless you are really sure that the roof needs to be replaced, I'd pay a few hundred bucks (that's the rate here) to have someone take a peek, try to ID where it's leaking and give you an overall assessment of repair vs replace. Lots of factors to consider - are you going to stay in the house, how long would a fix last you, what level of shingles would you replace with, etc. I have had neighbors had to replace < 15 year old 3 tab shingles that were cheap builders grade- I've been lucky- the few leaks we have had were due to failing vent stack o-rings and I should get at least another 5 years barring any wind damage. It is money well spent- It might be as simple as a flashing repair, a loose ridge vent, that sort of thing. With virtually no experience, a bunch of us have now done several successful roofing jobs. In summary summary- If it's a relatively simple roof design without a ton of valley's nor a really steep pitch, it is very doable if you are handy. However- go into it with you eyes open. The pros will have a crew of wiry guys that crawl across the roof like spider monkeys and will knock out a good sized roof in a day. You won't be able to do this. Roofing is a hot, dirty job and somewhat backbreaking job. While each shingle is light- the total weight adds up quickly and you are bent over for hours on end. With a crew of novices of 10-25 or 30 people it took us at least 3 days to do the roof- one took a week. Again a bunch of novices and about 1/2 were teens. Very rewarding to do but it is hard work. If it's hot, you really cant' work all day- it's exhausting and if hot enough the shingles get funky to work with and can tear A few other thougths 1) I think even if your roof will support, you will want to tear off the old shingles. They come up pretty easily with a roofing shovel. It is a lot of work dragging them to a dumpster but you need to do it. I was told that when you don't you will void the warranty- not sure if that is always true . Given the amount of work, you don't want to do it often. Also, you need to see what's under the shingles. You may have some sheathing to replace - we found areas that needed truss repairs. At a minimum it will give you a clean slate. Two existing layers equates to probably 1/2 or more in location where the shingles are doubled up- you might need to use longer nails. If you ever sell, you can be assured a roof with 3 layers will be on the home inspection report. 2) Spend the bucks on better materials- There are some underlayments that are much better than tar paper and provide temporary waterproofing. Buy the ice and water shield and use it in the valleys even though some say it isnt' needed- It's best practice for a reason. Dont' cheap out on the shingles either. When they deliver stuff, pay for them to place it on the roof vs humping it up ladders 3) Don't even consider saving $s and nailing my hand. I bought a refurbished Porter Cable nailer for less than $100- you can always sell after the project is over. HF sells some that are heavier but work well to. You just need a small compressor to keep up- you wont' be flying like the pros 4) This is absolutely the kind of projects where more hands are better. There are lots of trips up and down the ladder, chalk lines to be snapped, shingles to be moved, etc, etc. A lot of the work doesn't require much skill, but it is a lot of work. Unless it is small, I would not do it with just 2 people. 5) There are some very good instruction videos on Youtube and other sites. There's also more than one way to do some of this. Spend your time prepping and understanding best practices. 6). if you have a steep roof, I'd really consider hiring the pros. They have all the right safety equipment and training. As someone once said to me- "Your earning potential is much better without two broken legs or a broken back" . My apologies for the ramble- Good luck with it
  8. I'm horrible with rotation...largely because of a small (< 100sqft) garden and also because I grow mostly tomatoes- not much diversity just a few cukes and peppers. I do get a great deal on it at a local greenhouse in PA vs a traditional supplier (big box or mail order). When I do want to move things, I place a patch under neath the bigger piece and it works OK.
  9. Protects the city water from backflow from the household should the city pressure drop and avoid system contamination. Similar reason to the antisiphon /air gaps on hose bibs.
  10. Thanks for the thoughts. I could probably be better at watering from below . I typically pre wet my promix in a tub before I transplant. Will likely try just straight Promix next year.
  11. That's something I hadn't thought about. I was thinking engine weight over the drive axles and tires more likely on a dry section of the ramp, but you raise an interesting point.
  12. The only change I make is that I use HEAVY duty weed-cloth vs black plastic. This is the landscape cloth they put under gravel and pavers. It's commercial grade material that I buy from a greenhouse- come in widths around 10 or 12 ft. I tried cheep weed cloth in the past with poor success, and don't like the lack of permeability of straight black plastic nor how slippery it is when you go in the garden after a rain. Others have great luck with it, so YMMV. The weed-cloth I think serves the same function as the black plastic. Mine has now been down for a couple of years and my Dad had some down for about 4 or 5 without replacement. Application is the same, So far i am impressed. I had a horrible weed issue due to using straw as a mulch..lots of unintended seeds...
  13. Either uniformed (and maybe stupid :)) or didn't want to admit that their new meter caused you problems. I suspect that without the expansion tank and with a new check valve, that new meter just pushed your already failing old tank. At least it's solved.
  14. Lived in FL for about 10 years. Had a 2WD SUV myself. With no snow and not a ton of beaches to drive on they are pretty common down there, so I'm sure the salesperson has greater inventory. Had a few boats we used at work and usually 2WD was fine. As others have said, some steep,slimy ramps can sometimes be a hassle. My limited experience suggest that if the boat and trailer is light (I'm a fan of aluminum float on trailers for small skiffs) and it's a real ramp that is concrete into the water you're usually OK. It's when you're on a bad ramp or off the end in the sand you need 4WD, It's a bad feeling sliding down a ramp. If it was a 2WD SUV, I'd favor the front wheel drive ones just due to better traction up on the ramp vs drive wheels down at the waters edge. Also, not all 16ft boats and trailer combos are not the same. Think 16ft john boat on an aluminum trailer vs heavy old fiberglass boat on a beefy steel trailer. Good luck
  15. If I recall, DRylock sells the acid in a powdered format ( I think it's phoshoric maybe?)- Make a solution, brush on the walls and the rinse off ).