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About HansB

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  1. BOA Laces breaking? Is this something that actually happened to you, if so, that’s a real bummer. Or something you read or heard anecdotally somewhere that occurs at a high rate? Please provide the reference or the shop you talked to. To be honest, I’m still on the fence about the BOA systems, but the laces are not what I am concerned about. Managing the sand issue is a big step in liking these boots. I talked to BOA before I bought these boots and they claimed less than 1% failure rate and most of those failures they tracked are secondary to impact such as bike crashes. The reason they offer a lifetime “no question asked” warranty where they will provide you parts at no cost is because of the robustness of their systems. The wire is supposedly a 49 strand aircraft grade stainless wire cable. They were kind enough to send me a 100mm wire kit to have as a spare just in case, which included a T6 driver used to open the mechanism. I was told that for this application (wading boot) I should worry less about the wire breaking and more about the materials of the boot itself breaking down before that would likely happen. Cleaning and maintaining the mechanism would go a long ways to prevent failure as would changing the wire should you see a fray or klnk develop. But for tensile strength failure, unlikely. I spoke to the customer service desk at Orvis about the BOA Pivots boot and they said to look at the reviews and to date, there is one mention of a wire problem out of 118 reviews. (4.7/5) Orvis fan boys? Don’t know but mostly positive things are said. I also received firsthand positive feedback from the customer service folks at REI who sell BOA-equipped snowboard, ski and cycling models. All the feedback I got from them was positive, and none of them had any problems with wires snapping without user error. The only precaution they gave as an example was not to let the snowboard edge rest on the wire and possibly fray it. I mentioned fishing and the reply was that snowboarding involves a lot more physical stress on a BOA mechanism than climbing a hill, walking a stream or the surf. Guessing time will tell and I’m hoping others with firsthand experience will drop in and share them, and I will do the same at the end of the season.
  2. I wanted to add that the only thing you have to watch for is that the better neoprene gravel guards have a Velcro strip that runs the entire length of the attachment side of the gravel guard. There is a sharp edge on the upper edge of the strip once it’s attached that can cause abrasions and tear into the inner fabric of the gravel guard built into my silver sonic waders. When you fold your gravel guards down to attach to the D ring on the boot, the inner fabric of the gravel guard is resting on that sharp edge and can damage it. Just be careful with this when wrapping the neoprene gravel guard or modify that edge by removing some of the outer edge of the Velcro. I have been able to use the Orvis Infinity Gravel Guards and the Frogg Troggs Gravel Guards with success. I removed the outside edge of the guards and tacked them down with a couple of stitches. If you are careful how you wrap the neoprene gravel guards it likely isn’t necessary to remove the edge. Here is a close up of the upper edge that abrades the lining of the built in gravel guard.
  3. Just wanted to share my experience with the use of BOA boots in the surf or anywhere you are likely to foul the BOA mechanism Initially tried them in the surf with just the built in gravel guards from my Orvis Guide Waders and the BOA mechanism fouled up first trip and it was difficult to get them off. I took the mechanism apart and it was literally clogged with sand and I felt fortunate to be able to get them off at all considering some of the other experiences I had read. Called Orvis and they recommended their Infinite Gravel Guards worn over the built in gravel guards on my waders. Didn't take long to realize that wearing them over my existing gravel guards was a bad idea as the surf will work them loose, so I put them under my gravel guards. Unfortunately, the sand still got under both sets of gravel guards and clogged the BOA mechanism. Took it apart again and there was a decent amount of sand in the mechanism. So thought trial and error over the next few trips I was able to find a way to keep sand completely out of the mechanism: 1) Use the old garbage back trick. Using a plastic trash bag has always made it easier to slip a bootie into a wading boot and will actually save wear and tear by making the boot entry smoother with no pressure or stretching on the neoprene fabric. I use a cheap lightweight 10 gal wastebasket liner I got from Costco and use the excess and fold it to create a barrier on the upper 2-3” of the boot to cover the BOA mechanism. I take the leftover liner and pull it back and just tuck it into the back of my boot. 2) Use an additional neoprene gravel guard over the top of the boot thereby sealing the plastic liner over the BOA mechanism. Just a couple of steps that doesn’t take a lot of time and the BOA boots are good to go in the surf. I clean the mechanism out after a few trips with a T6 driver. Call BOA folks and they will send you a repair kit and the driver free of charge. Quick rinse and check and simple maintenance to keep the BOA mechanism functioning properly. There are pros and cons to the BOA boots with the potential for the wiring breaking but at least clogged mechanisms can be managed. I really like mine, the easy in and out is real plus. I also have a small mini-pry bar with a beveled edge in my SUV just in case I need to lift the BOA knob should it get jammed. Haven’t had to use it in several trips once I started using the methods above HTH
  4. Have had no problems ordering from them dating back to 2000. I see the item you are alluding to in my cart at $492. I took it to the last checkout step and it still was at that price. Is this the correct wetsuit? If you still are going to buy it, send them the email to get the extra 10% off as well..... GL
  5. Couple of nice rods that together would cover throwing 3/4 oz bucktails to 2-3 oz metal and wood. Great prices.
  6. The reliability is not going to get better so why buy new bulbs. You are throwing money at an issue that's not going to get any better, you need to get GREEN. Plus the frustration of those finicky bulbs/ballasts. From what you are saying you have 11 T12 bulbs at 40 W each. That's a lot of wattage and you are the expert at figuring annual costs right? I just helped a friend install some FEIT Electric 4" linkable shop kits from Costco that are on sale at 2 for $40 including shipping that put out more light than the T12 fixtures and use a lot less energy. Sure there are some better choices are there but he was happy with them as he had to use only 2/3 as many fixtures in his workshop for the amount of light they put out. Good luck with the project when you decide to do it.
  7. Take a peek at this two and three year test of some wood filling products. Granted the fills were unprotected, not primed and painted, but the more expensive epoxy based products mentioned above held up the best. The Minwax High Performance Wood Filler is essentially the same as Bondo. http://thecraftsmanblog.com/the-wood-filler-epoxy-test-year-2/ http://thecraftsmanblog.com/the-wood-filler-epoxy-test-year-3/
  8. Thanks for considering the offer. Good luck with the sale!
  9. Shark, I have never had problems with Ready Patch not drying. It's great for patching, and for a slightly deep fill, you just have to layer and let dry, repeat. Just have to be patient to let it dry. Overnight at times. The termite guys carry it and like it because it's premixed. I've used it all over the house for patching, repairing dings in moulding, patching shallow voids in siding and sheetrock where there is backing n place. Still shrinks a little, not as much as drywall compound or anything you have to mix with water. Never used Durabond, it's not available in California. Looks like you have to mix it like joint compound. Can you sand and form it once it's dried to shape? I've tried regular joint compound, but it seems to be soft when dry and can easily be dinged, especially on a corner. But for a skim coat on a flat wall, it's great. I reformed a damaged corner on a fireplace brick with Bondo/ min wax wood filler. Turned out great, and wouldn't use Ready Patch for that. I'm thinking different products are necessary depending on what you are trying to repair. There isn't one product that can do it all, but wouldn't hesitate to use the Ready Patch for those repairs that call for it.
  10. I've used Zinsser MH Ready Patch with good success for non-weight bearing patch work and filler. Easy to work with, dries hard, white in color and sands nicely to make corners, etc, prime and paint and looks good. I've used Bondo as well, as well as Minwax Wood Filler (expensive retail version of Bondo) and it is better than the Ready Patch for outdoor repairs, but as you mentioned, pot time is short. Good luck with your project.
  11. I can offer $260 shipped to 95014. Thanks!
  12. A true gentleman....nice meeting you on the beach Chris. Hope you had a nice Friday with Linesideslayer. Enjoy the rest of your trip and be safe. I released this one too a little later on that stretch of water.
  13. I have the new Surf Pro version of the 1084 with the K guides and shorter handle/butt than the older Ron Arra model. It's a nice rod that can handle either size reel, so would depend on the type of fishing you are doing and the size of the fish you are chasing. That rod is very light and weighs 12 oz and has a very short handle. At least 1 to 1 1/2 inches shorter than than the Ron Arra model. Great rod as can thrown 3/4 oz bucktails to 2 oz wood and metal. Shortcoming would be not being able to throw metal to reach those birds just out of reach. If you are trying to keep the outfit lightweight with a couple of hundred yards of braid, then a 4000 series reel would be fine. Weight range would vary from 9.0-10.0 oz for a Shimano Stradic/Stella/Twinpower. Balance point is slightly fore of the upper grip. Because the combined outfit is so lightweight, I really don't notice any perceived tip heaviness fishing the rod all day several weekends in a row. If you need the line capacity then jump up to the 6K Gosa or Stella SW. Both are around 16 oz. It is noticeably heavier in hand. The Cabo 40/50 lies somewhere between those two in terms of line capacity and weight at 13 oz. Would work just fine as well. HTH