capefish4231

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About capefish4231

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  1. And sand I'm sure, the effect is similar to a sandblaster or rock tumbled finish.
  2. Also, maybe this was discussed before and I missed it - do you guys that use cork drag reels like Islander, classic Tibor, Abel, etc always crank down the drag prior to any planned submersion? I do as it was a recommendation by Islander for cleaning purposes, it helps keep a film of water from developing on the cork surface. So if I'm going to swim to a rock or I know I will be submerging the reel, I crank the drag down tight. Then back it off when I am out.
  3. I will admit my figure of the 99.9% was made up as a way of quantifying the feedback I do (or in this case do not) see complaining of water intrusion. But I will argue that it is not difficult to get a full seal on revolving parts. Look at lip seals used in automotive applications - granted oil and coolant have different properties than seawater but those rotating assemblies see many many many times more revolutions than our reels will ever see and those seals hold up. Or look at the lower unit on an outboard, water on one side gear oil on the other, granted the weight of the gear oil has an opposing force effect on water attempting to push its way in. While it may be nice to see some kind of corresponding test data that could equate a manufacturer's claim of fully sealed to a standard NEMA or IP rating I guess I personally don't care enough to chase it down any further. I made it many years on a 'sealed' BPS reel that had only three o-rings as a means of sealing and repeated dunks/drops, no issue til the drag started to get funky. I hope the folks at Hatch put a little more time and effort into sealing the Finatic than BPS did at its $150 price point.
  4. Now you are getting into semantics of what constitutes a 100% sealed reel. What manufacturers call a sealed drag is absolutely a sealed drag for 99.99% of the fishing population. Even if you fished up to your neck with the reel underwater the entire time, i doubt you would subject it to the pressure needed to push water past the seals. Much like a 100m rated 'waterproof' watch vs. an ISO 6425 dive watch, the general public will experience the same level of sealing performance from each as they are not generally taking it past a few meters of depth.. I would not want to open my sealed reel and clean it after every outing. That's probably an incredibly quick way to compromise that seal. FWIW i fish an original Islander and a Hatch so I am not particularly subjective toward sealed reels.
  5. Avoid the behemoth unless you are certain you will not drop it. Cast construction cracks/breaks rather than bends. Echo Bravo is a good bet but new to the market so not much feedback. Don't discount unsealed reels - take care of it and you don't need a totally sealed reel.
  6. As the title says - looking for a spare spool for a Lamson Radius 2. Circa 2006 as shown in the example pic below. Or if you have a complete reel you would part with let me know. Thanks!
  7. I like my Behemoth on my #7 but I dropped it onto the carpet last week and the handle hit first, and it snapped clean off. Presumably due to the cast (rather than machined) construction. The reel was like $90 and a spool is like $60 (I think). I do not have a lot of interest in purchasing a new spool.
  8. two Sages here, Launch and Motive neither have dots.
  9. I think you're getting cabin fever. Just call T&T already.
  10. Since the guide is already F'd (or not but it seems to be a big deal) why not just take your line and slide it back and forth for 20 minutes and see what happens. Guarantee you will exert more pressure doing it with your hands than you would by casting and so you can see the premature wear, if in fact it exists, over a much shorter cycle count.
  11. I can almost guarantee it isn’t due to increased pressure on the guides as result of the smaller contact area/reduced cross section. If it were, you would see guides wearing out left and right for every single gear fisherman that uses mono or braid.
  12. Not sure about the Airflo lines you are using, but on my 40+ lines, the ridges run lengthwise (perpendicular to the guide surface) not parallel to it, so the effect is no different than that of the fly line itself without ridges, except over a smaller surface area.
  13. Impressive store, it looks like it is a former luxury home converted into a storefront. I went to Addieville East Farm in Mapleville, RI for a company outing and walked through their on-site store. They had a few guns approaching $200K. Absolutely absurd pricing.
  14. Stormy I think you got the wrong thread
  15. If you do go four-piece, I would also suggest investing in one of the soft-sided fly rod bags similar to the Orvis Safe Passage bag. It stores four-piece rods and has moveable dividers for reels, flies, etc. If I go on a short trip I will take that and a backpack and get get away with up to 3 ish days that way. I have flown all over within the country with a four piece rod tube, reel, box of saltwater sized flies, and 4" aluminum pliers in my carry on and have never once had an issue. They usually do not even look at the stuff, it just comes out the other end of the conveyor and I am off.