unclebunker

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About unclebunker

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/27/1947

Converted

  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fishing,rod building,bird hunting
  • What I do for a living:
    Retired 30-yr. fedex driver.

Profile Fields

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    new milford,ct.
  1. I wasn't very clear. 150' between 2 guys = 75' between guys with me in the middle. It should be alright with most,but like I said, I don't spend a lotta time up there.I try not to be a dick any more than necessary.
  2. No need to be embarassed, Mike. If you can think of it,somebody's tried it. There were bamboo rods wrapped that way commercially in the '30's. Didn't make any more sense then than it does now;they were horrible,heavy monstrosities. Unk.
  3. Found my way to the service rd. 1/2 mi. or so above the Sagamore bridge last w/e around 5:00a.m. Had to walk quite a way to find a spot with a little room (maybe 150-160ft.) between guys; touched base with both of 'em to make sure they were o.k.with it,which they were. Good guys.Half-hour later,the Asian contingent arrived,complete with headlamps,noisy laughter,and high-fives. Two went left,three right, announced "Fish here!",and started to insert themselves between us.I haven't fished the Canal in a year,and never when crowds were bad,but this seemed wrong, so I told 'em there wasn't enough room."No.no.no. We spread out." So they filled in,and the guy on the right crossed me on the first cast. He said,"I'm over you.", and I aked him if he was surprised at that. That was the end of his ability to speak English. Five minutes later,his jig is runnin'up my line again,so I cut it off,held it over the water,and threw it to (at?) him. He retreated to the far side of his friends,none of whom can any longer speak English,and crowded the guy to my right who'd originally let me in.He was far more patient than I'd been ,and eventually we tired and crawled back up the rip-rap and talked a little.(The fishing had been GREAT).I asked how he felt about what happened;he was a local and a little more relaxed about the whole thing. Next morning I decided to go with the flow. The crowds hadn't improved,but I (and the guys around me) had a better time.I guess circumstances hafta be allowed for. Anyhow, I might be a little more willing to share my rock in the future.Make of this what you will; I'm just thinkin' out loud. Unk.
  4. Thanks, TBush. I ordered one of the alps seats I thought looked kinda sexy.Couldn't tell from the pictures whether it would work out for me. If not, I'll stick it on somethin' else, and NPS this one. I liked your loose reelseat fix from another thread. wcitot.
  5. Thanks, Billy. I agree on the aluminum for all of the above reasons plus the fact they seemed-to me- to loosen up and/or corrode. Just tryin' to dress it up a little.Appreciate the feedback.
  6. You can try drillin an' fillin'; it's a viable approach. There's no way to shim that I've ever heard of, but the reel seat should be a fairly close fit. Shimming at the factory level is counter-productive. Work as much epoxy in there as possible;spin the reelseat to spread it,remember to line it up with the first guide,and see how it goes. MH sells syringes for this-- for too much money- but the junkies are the only people I know of who are smart enough to get 'em outside a medical facility. Good luck.
  7. You can build anything you care to. You'll be left with roughly a 9-ft rod having a slower action and lighter weight capability. I'd contact Lamiglas first, however. Their rods don't come cheap,the company's been in business longer than any other blank manufacturer--(I think. St. Croix might have preceded 'em.)--and I'd give em a chance to determine the right path. I'd be interested to know how ya make out. Unk.
  8. Looks like the right path to me, Mike. The layout is the key; spacing and centering need to be as precise as possible. Your diamonds look good; the second set's axis needs to be half-way around and half the distance above the centers of your first axis.Easier said than done, I know. For me, good books on the subject were invaluable. Dale Clemens wrote "Custom Rod Thread Art"-out of print but shows up on-line sometimes. Tom Kirkman had/has a 'Rod Building Guide", and Billy Vivona's "Decorative Wraps" is pretty much the gold standard. Clear instructions and tips will getcha where you're goin' pretty quickly, from the looks of your early attempts. Good luck; it's a rewarding hobby. Unk.
  9. Thanks,Billy. Either great minds think alike, or--- you're an old fart too.
  10. It's a weather balloon.
  11. I've become, somehow, what we kids used to call an old-timer (known less poetically today as an old fart, according to my wife and daughter). Long-time hobbyist rod-builder. I've managed to keep up to some extent, but admit to an unhealthy degree of skepticism as to what's the latest and greatest.I'm not so old I can't fish,however, and after a few GREAT days in the big ditch, have decided to upgrade my SU 1326 honey lami to somethin' my arthritic shoulders will appreciate more. I'm up to speed on blanks, find K-guides too sexy to ignore, will try some of that fancy-lookin' Winn grip tape out, but I haven't up-graded my reelseats since Fuji invented graphite and came out with the DPS. This'll be a spinnin' rod, guys. So, whadda we like nowadays? And why? My thanks in advance for your suggestions. Unk.
  12. From an adhesion point-of- view, less (tighter) is better. As close as your specs are, the shimming is really minimal; nothin' to worry about.
  13. You guys are lights out on that stuff.
  14. A hacksaw is the weapon of choice. Wrap a layer of masking tape carefully around the blank to give yourself a square edge and minimize splintering.If you wanta use cork (expensive),build your foregrip first.You'll hafta ream the inside of the cork oversize to clear the butt diameter and shim at the foregrip (masking tape again). You'll reduce the 1'' butt diameter when you shorten the rod, so measure the new diameter and choose a reelseat as close to that as possible,still big enough to clear the butt end. slide up to foregrip and shim with tape. Same general process to finish butt section. Slow-cure epoxy from any hardware store works well as glue. As you've figured out, this is work intensive,and may be a little challenging, so give some thought to cork tape,or even easier, heat-shrink X-patterned tubing. The epoxy on your wraps can be freshened up with a very light and careful sanding and thin coat of epoxy. If you're in striking distance of New Bedford, CMS is the only shop in the area that I know of that sells a good range of supplies. Otherwise, an internet search of rod building will help. Good luck with your project.
  15. That sounds good too. I'm just a little puzzled how to tell whether the outside is too big or the inside is too small.And I think painting the inside of a blank is just...well... anal. in my view.