Hirdy

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About Hirdy

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    Senior Member

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  • About Me:
    Serious about fly fishing since late 2011.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Photography, cycling
  • What I do for a living:
    Geologist conducting seismic interpretation and geological modelling in the minerals industry

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  1. Shooting a weight forward line is an option once the cast distance is approaching 40' and beyond. At 40', you've got a leader and a rod and about 20' of line, which means you've still got 10' to 20' of the head inside the tip. In addition, of that 20', 6' to 12' is taper so there's not much weight out there. This means you've got less mass outside the tip than inside, and shooting line will not be any better with a WF than with a DT line for these short casts. Do you need to cast beyond 40'? If you've got back cast room and trees above, then sidecasting is the option, regardless of line type. If you only have 40' of back cast room, then yes, a WF line will let you shoot to (say) 70' whereas the DT line might only reach 50' in the same situation (depending on your skill.) If you don't need to cast beyond 40', then once again, the letters DT or WF don't matter in that situation. In the situation you've described (trees above and perhaps limited backcast room) I'd be looking to do a roll cast from the side or if more distance is required, I'd use a poke and a roll cast or a full-on switch cast, single spey or circle spey (depending on directional changes.) With this situation, I'd recommend a line designed for roll casting because they do indeed make a difference. The Rio Single Hand Spey line is one excellent example. Cheers, Graeme
  2. They've been making these rods for many years. The MiniMag rods and their Bluewater rods have glass butt sections. In use, you'd never know they had glass sections. (I've got three minimags and had the LD Bluewater 12wt for a while.) I've managed to break the butt section of one of my minimags. Cheers, Graeme
  3. It doesn't sound like you're confused. You're right on track. (The difference is in the end of the line that is attached to the reel. There's no inherent difference at the end attached to the leader. That end is just taper design and is not related to whether it's a WF or a DT line.) Cheers, Graeme
  4. Good loops come from a tip path that is mostly straight, with a little bit of "doming" present. Tailing loops are always the result of the tip following a concave path (bowl-shaped path). In this context, that bowl shape is probably due to the incorrect application of power*, where redgreen is hitting the gas pedal too early in the stroke. If the gas pedal is hit too hard too early, the tip drops down suddenly and forms one side of the bowl. During the stroke the line begins accelerating (bottom of the bowl) and then, with no gas left in the tank at the end of the cast, the line begins to catch up to the tip, reducing the tension. The rod straightens and the tip rises, forming the other side of the bowl. (The solution is a wider, smoother start to the casting arc. Drift helps, as noted earlier, because it widens the arc.) The water haul is damping the acceleration of the line enough that the line tension is maintained throughout the stroke, rather than its normal tendency to reduce prematurely with insufficient power being applied towards the end of the stroke. The consequence is a straighter tip path and a pleasant loop. However, that doesn't - in-itself - explain why the next forward cast works well for many people. The reason the next forward cast works well is because the back cast is finishing without slack and it's usually 180˚ away from the forward target, both of which are very desirable states for the line to be in just prior to the initiation of any cast. For many people, their normal back cast is a weak point, often not fully straightening. When these people get a good cast following a water hauled back cast, they may attribute the good forward cast to the water haul, rather than the great back cast they achieved. (The answer, of course, is to improve their normal back cast so they can make the good forward casts at will. ) Cheers, Graeme * There may also be a casting arc that's too narrow from the start, or became too narrow after "creep", which is where the caster unconsciously rotates the rod forward a little before applying power.
  5. If you are commonly casting 40' or less, it does not matter. They are the pretty much the same at those distances*. Since you've bought a 6'6" 4wt rod, I doubt you're aiming to cast +60' very often, so use any line you like Cheers, Graeme * ... assuming you're staying away from clunky lines like the Rio Outbound Short. They are not "typical lines".
  6. I'll second Esa's recommendation. The Airflo Striper intermediate line is a lovely line in all but the hottest of conditions (say air at 40˚C and water around 28˚C). It's my favourite intermediate line and I expect the 10wt line would suit the rod you've got very well. Cheers, Graeme
  7. Are you saying you took the whole reel apart and rinsed it while it was disassembled, including the cork? If so, that's where the problem is coming from. You're letting water get into the space between the cork and the drag plate. There should only ever be cork and neatsfoot oil in that space. To rinse the reel, leave it assembled with light drag pressure and run water over it, then let it dry. Never let water get inside the drag area. The light drag pressure will exclude the water. Cheers, Graeme
  8. Tough conditions indeed.
  9. Yep, it would be a pleasure. (My Sunday is gone already. 10:45 pm here now ... )
  10. G'day Mike, The apparent reluctance to seek lessons is a hard thing to answer. I can only think it comes down to a stuborness to seek help that's fairly well ingrained in most men I know. We nearly all want to nut this out for ourselves. There is also perhaps a feeling that seeking advice is somehow admitting defeat. I agree about the pursuit of improved casting via retail enhancement. There are (for me) two parallel development channels that fly guys seem to follow. One is concerned with casting skill, the other is concerned with gear purchases: Beginners - wide loops, the cheapest possible gear. Intermediates - tailing loops, the most expensive gear they can afford Advanced - great loops, unaware of the gear in their hands. What this tells me is that many of us follow a path where we try to buy a cast. We think the reason we are not getting anywhere is the crap gear we're using. The obvious answer is to spend some money. In truth, we can minimise the time and money we spend in the middle category by seeking lessons and practicing what we learn. I am living testement to your contention that we don't need to spend years "paying our dues". Hard work and a few lessons will get us a long way up that learning curve. I had three lessons before reaching a level I felt could be good enough to become an instructor. It took me nearly 6 years from absolute beginner to Instructor, but the first three years were close to wasted without lessons. (Two years later and I'm sitting for my Master Casting Instructor certification in October.) What is the typical time for a beginning caster to become proficient? Depending on their dedication and prior experience (not all of which is good), I would think 6 months would be a good estimate. A few lessons and a lot of practice will get them there. The cost of the lessons, if I were giving them, would probably total about US$300 (I charge the equivalent of about US$35 an hour.) What do 3 new rods and two dozen lines cost? The longer people delay before finally seeking lessons can be a big factor in their eventual development. All sorts of bad habits and incorrect "facts" become ingrained during that period. They can be overcome, but they take a while to get out of the system. In extreme cases, I sometimes ask the student to cast with their opposite hand - the hand without the "muscle memory" - for a while. It's easier to teach some people from scratch. The most important feature of any face-to-face lesson is the feedback about your own cast that you simply cannot get by watching videos, reading books or visiting web sites. Whatever you think you're doing, chances are it's nothing like what you're actually doing. A certified caster is trained to find the flaws in a student's technique and provide a bespoke solution. Getting a few pointers from your mates probably won't be as useful. If you can't get a lesson? Well, that was me for the first three years. There were no instructors on this side of the continent (before me). There are some good web sites around that are dedicated to casting. Sexyloops is one I'm on daily. Although few people take up the offer, Paul Arden and others there will analyse videos of your casting and offer advice on how to improve. I'm also happy to do the same. There are some excellent books that have come out lately: I highly recommend Jason Borger's book "Single-Handed Fly Casting" for people of every level of casting. Simon Gawesworth's book on Single Hand Spey Casting is also a great book. Cheers, Graeme
  11. No dissent from me. That's all sound advice. Cheers, Graeme
  12. I think if I had been subjected to the hate they received from the Aussie public, I'd be in tears too. We felt completely betrayed by a team we thought above reproach. True, on a scale of war crimes, it had a lowly rank, but the outrage they faced when they got home was like they'd been passing state secrets to the Russians. I've never seen a reaction like it. Bring on the Ashes! All will be forgiven.
  13. We probably also agree that the Aussie cricketers are crap without sandpaper in their pockets.
  14. Where's that like button?
  15. (Cross posted HT. Mine is waiting on moderation because I put a hyperlink to information in it.) Okay, well doing it yourself is indeed fun. There's a guy with videos on how to splice lines on his web site. Search "Hooked 4 Life" and you'll see how it's done. Good fun. You won't save any money but you'll learn, and that's a good thing.