Hirdy

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About Hirdy

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    Senior Member

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  • About Me:
    Serious about fly fishing since late 2011.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Photography, cycling
  • What I do for a living:
    Geologist conducting seismic interpretation and geological modelling in the minerals industry

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  1. My advice is simple: Keep the rod tip higher than you're used to when you make that final cast. Much higher. Cheers, Graeme
  2. Fixed it for ya Oly. Cheers, Graeme
  3. I'd put all of those circled performances in the hands of the caster, not the rod.
  4. JB Hollow braid is good. Splice in an end loop made with 100lb and you have no knots anywhere. For those of you cutting your fingers on your backing, you're doing it wrong. Cheers, Graeme
  5. Playing the devil's advocate here (because I agree 100%) but isn't the whole thing about enjoyment? Landing fish or not doesn't worry me, but enjoying my fishing is the reason I'm there. (I'm not one to really feel one rod being more enjoyable than another - I adapt my casting and just keep fishing. They all feel good if using them means I'm not at work. ) Cheers, Graeme
  6. Try a spinning rod that needs less casting weight and you'll find it less clunky. I've built rods like this before and they are fine. Cheers, Graeme
  7. Water haul is normally defined as pulling the line off the water and delivering 180° from that direction with no other casts. For example, deliberately dropping the line on the back cast and then pulling it off the water for the front cast, using water tension to "load" the rod more than the weight of the line alone would. Capt. Lou is describing a long line lift, which is very useful and well worth doing. It could be classed as a water haul for the back cast, especially if shooting line into the back cast. Cheers, Graeme
  8. Surely you're not saying that any of those people you've listed can't be great casters? Having certification from the FFi doesn't preclude the instructor from also being a great caster. I will absolutely admit the certification does not tell you if the instructor is a great caster. I personally know a few CCIs who can't reach 100', but I know many more who can hit 110' using a 5wt MED line without too much trouble. I also know a (select) few guys who can hit 120' easily with a 10wt line but have no idea how to teach what they do. If those guys gave someone a lesson, the student would never reach 100'. The trick is to find a truly great caster who can also explain how it's done. It doesn't matter who that is or if they hold some sort of certification. But please don't tar all instructors with that brush Mark. You know it's not true. Cheers, Graeme (For what it's worth, the CCI exam only tests the candidate's ability to cast to 75'. The MCI exam is only to 85' but the candidate needs to "make it look easy" or they'll fail. You're right to point out the CCI may not be a great caster, but it certainly doesn't mean they can't easily hit 120'. They just haven't been asked to do that to achieve CCI or MCI level.)
  9. And you know this because you have fished with "most of the people" claiming to be able to cast 100'? Maybe you should spend more time with people who can cast well. You'd then see they would not choose the line you're using and that 100' casts are not difficult when the caster knows what they're doing and they have a line designed for it. Graeme
  10. It really depends on the line design. If I have an 80' DT line on, I'll be carrying 70' of line plus the leader and shoot 10'. With a SA Mastery Expert Distance, I'll carry between 60' and 80' of line plus the leader and shoot the remainder. If I have a 50' head, I'll have the head plus the leader plus about 6' of running line outside the tip of the rod. If I have a 30' head, it'll be all the head plus about 6' of running line (I don't like this style of line so I rarely use one.) If you opt for a line like the Rio OBS, you need to shoot a lot of line to reach 100' and that's not great for accuracy and it's awful into the wind. The longer the belly of the line (be it DT or WF) the further you can carry line and the less line you need to shoot to reach 100' for the presentation. The main thing is not to have too much running line outside the tip or the loop will be hard to form. Cheers, Graeme
  11. It's not hard to learn to cast with the opposite hand, especially if you can use your dominant hand as the teacher. A few weeks and you'll you'll be competent. In fact, I often get intermediate casters who are having problems "breaking their wrist" and thus opening their loops to give it a try. People are naturally less adept at using their non-dominant wrist and they end up with nice tight loops within a minute or two. Learning to haul with the dominant hand will do your head in at the start though ... Cheers, Graeme
  12. Tomkaz, I didn't say I look at a single review from an unknown person and take their review as gospel. I read LOTS of reviews from lots of people for any given rod and work out if I might like it. I also look at how many niggles show up for a rod. Some things people like or dislike are not necessarily things I like or dislike, but their presence or absence tells me a lot. Fighting butts and SW components, for instance: I want them on every rod I own, 10wt or 4wt, doesn't matter. However, there are a lot of specific people on these forums whose opinions I DO value very highly. If those people give a good or bad review of a rod, reel, line or tippet, I sit up and take notice. These are people I trust because I've interacted with them over long periods. Their advice is usually solid and their reviews are done without the ulterior motive of selling me something. Bonefishdick, thanks for your vote of confidence, but I wouldn't set up a review based on their criteria. Categories like "fun to fish", "must have" and "Perfect 8 Performance" are so subjective as to be laughable. These guys present their reviews as a scientific comparison of rods, but their categories allow them to fudge the result any way they like. The rods they would like to promote always score very highly in these categories while the other rods lose points. I'd much rather give all of those rods to 5 or 10 fishers I respect and ask them to tell me which three they liked most with their favourite lines strung through them after using them for a day on the water. No need to assign numbers - they mean nothing anyway - just some opinions I value. (Give me any rod rated - truly - as an 8 and a DT8 line and I'll hit targets between 30' and 100'. That's not about the rod, it's about the casters' ability to adapt. If it's not an 8, it'll show up in this test ...) Anyway, if nothing else, these "shootouts" provide a couple of discussion points each year. They help keep the forums lively. If some people like and trust them, that's their prerogative and their money to spend however they like. Cheers, Graeme
  13. Yep, the reviews written by the people here and on other forums. Owners rarely have much to gain by giving a good or bad review of a rod they've owned and used for some time. Reviews written for profit are the ones I'm least likely to trust. Cheers, Graeme
  14. I don't think they are worth the paper they're written on for us, the consumers. They're great value for the the shop though. A wonderful marketing effort. Cheers, Graeme
  15. That's exactly what it means. No more than 125 pixels by 50 pixels. In any case, your pic has changed when I view it. Cheers, Graeme