jabster

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About jabster

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  1. Lines are the most important piece in your set up, but it's the whole package that matters. Buying new fly lines and maintaining the old ones is a part of the game. Once you have enough rods to fish for basically anything that swims and decent reels to back them up, fly lines take up a lion's share of the fishing equipment budget. I think that the line manufacturers know that and are always increasing the prices for the lines as they know that people will end up buying them eventually:)
  2. As far as the "that's not fly fishing" crowd goes, dredging is similar to French or Czech nymphing or any similar technique that doesn't really rely on casting your fly but rather on the technique of fishing your fly with fly gear. Not purist by any means, but you are using fly gear and flies to fish. For me 450-500gr lines are the sweet spot for most 12wt's, but if your not going to use your sinking line at all to cast at fish, you can rig your 12wt with a 600gr or 750gr line easily. With a line that heavy you won't really be able to cast it, you just have to dump it according to the current and drift.
  3. Not sure what you mean by scoping? Not a native english speaker so some terms and words don't quite open up to me like they do to you natives:) . Sometimes its all about the depth you can reach, but many times it's the "swing" or path of the fly that matters more to get the bite. Really hard to put in words what I mean about it, but the sinking line game has more to it that meets the eye. Especially when your drifting on a boat. For the shore fisherman it's more straight forward.
  4. As for rod action goes, you need a rod that has a beefy tip. Super fast moving sinking line paired up with a heavy fly will overpower a soft tip section really fast.
  5. 450-500gr is money on most 12wts as a sinking line. 30ish foot of sinking stuff with an integrated intermediate running line is the most user friendly set up and one i use the most. SA and Rio makes the best ones. I've had serious problems with durability with the Airflo versions so try to stay away from them nowadays. They do sink a tad faster than other lines though. I don't see much benefit in a sinking running line. I've used lines that have a sink3 running line on them and haven't caught any more fish with them and they don't give me as good of a feel or connection to the fly as the ones that have a intermediate running line on them. Sinking line fishing from a boat is an Somewhat technical thing. Knowing how to fish and present is key to success. Getting the right angles and knowing when it's beneficial to cast "upstream" and when to just dump your line and let it sink is key. Sometimes you need lots of weight on the fly and added weight on the leader and sometimes it's better to go light. Not my number one choice of fly fishing but I have really grown to like it over the years and is lots of fun to do if the fish are not happy on top.
  6. I've broken one old MD and that rod had a carbon fiber butt section. It was actually double walled so the outer wall might have been glass? From my understanding these new SG versions have a full glass butt section.
  7. It sure would be interesting to try out one of those factory made hybrids to see how well they stand against the self made versions.
  8. That sounds cool.
  9. I've tried it all and caught my fare share of fish. Always learning though and that is certainly a thing to keep my mind on. Don't have to do the "blank grabbing" very often. Some times when solo on the boat or doubled, tripled up and no one to help out and no chance of tiring the fish so that I can get some slack or when I literally can't move and stuck in the bushes landing the fish. I've never broken a rod that way and know very well to be very careful with the rod angle. Not promotion that way of operation in any way, just saying there can be circumstances it can be a useful skill to have.
  10. Yes sir. Avoid the high stick at all costs if doing that.
  11. I think there's a time and place where it can be beneficial. I do it at times if I'm landing a fish solo in a boat and have done it in tight space while wading too. The key is to keep the rod angle low. High sticking and sliding your hand up the blank is bad news.
  12. They do sink a bit slower then other intermediates. I actually think that they are more true to their sink rate and other intermediates seem to sink more then the 1.25", but got no factual evidence of this. The full intermediate Titan however is so limb that it would be a nightmare to use in hot conditions. Rio's Quickshooter XP has a much nicer taper then the OBS in my opinion and could be usable in at least semi-hot conditions as its a monocore line. That could be a good all round choice for a short head line. I've used mine from 50-70degrees and when stretched it's a line that I really like.
  13. I would personally lean to a short head line on your short stix. I do most of my sw fishing with lines that have a 35-45' head, but the exception is if I use a short rod. Just my preference, but find longer tapers too much work for short rods. Royal Wolff's Bermuda is a good line. I personally don't like the taper on the obs, so would go to a Wolff or a SA Sonar clear. Titans would be good to, but only available as a intermediate tip line in the warm water version and the full intermediate is a very limp line to use in the heat.
  14. That's interesting. I got a super11 that's been used a lot. I hated the reel at first, but once I switched from neats footoil to a graphite lube and lubed the gears with proper grease it's been a workhorse. The only thing that has limited my use of it is the fact that the drag adjustment is not really what I like to have on my reel. The build is so robust and free of modern reel problems like bearing failures etc that it still has a certain appeal to it.
  15. Yep, you go out there and try your best. The snotty, windy days are what you practice your cast for. Sometimes it pays off and sometimes the conditions just kick your butt.