jabster

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About jabster

  1. That works every time, plus you won't brake your rod if the fish swims under the boat in the process!
  2. Just dump the spool in a bucket full of water.
  3. I've used that rod a lot. Works great for me with the following lines: #8 weight Airflo Sniper, 9 and 10weight Airflo cold water intermediate, 10 weight SA sonar hover and striped bass lines, 21gram Vision big daddy pike lines and 9 and 10weight Vision Merisuola fly lines. Will probably handle a lot of other lines as well. Even though it's not the most responsive fly rod out there, I think for the price it's a very good rod. Light in hand and if your game is using tip action fast rods, it will get the job done. Just make sure not to overload the tip with a line that's too heavy and aggressive. On short head lines like the Sniper or Bermuda, this means keeping the head weight below 330gr. So with that said, I would go with the 10wt Bermuda if your shopping for that particular line and certainly not go for the 11wt.
  4. That's one skill that is still on my bucket list of things to learn before I quit this fly fishing stuff.
  5. Beautiful water. There are times that I miss trout fishing, but they tend to pass very quickly.
  6. Danielsson are generally very good value for money. They have had their share of problems too, but if that happens, they do a very good job of taking care of their customers. I used to have three Danielssons, but now I'm down to one L5W 9/12
  7. I'll just copy paste this from my reply to another thread. Some basic things to think about when your tying your hollows. Once you get these things settled you can move on to building better tapers and understanding the amount of flare you want in each tie. I wish I could explain things better, but I suck at writing, especially in english and struggle a bit to give people clear advice this way. "There are a few basic things you need to focus on when hollow tying. 1) Remember to take your time. 2) Make sure to distribute the hair evenly around the hook shank. 3) When you push back the hair make sure the hair pushed back are straight. Take your time to push them back evenly. 4) When making the thread cone in front of the hollow tie, make sure you keep your thread as straight as possible and secure the cone with some super glue. This is one of the most common mistakes I see people making. If the cone is un-even then the hair will flare out unevenly."
  8. Keep at it! Once you get the basics right it's all about repetition. You don't need long bucktail for this pattern. Med size and short work better on these smaller deceivers.
  9. I'm glad to hear that!
  10. There are a few basic things you need to focus on when hollow tying. 1) Remember to take your time. 2) Make sure to distribute the hair evenly around the hook shank. 3) When you push back the hair make sure the hair pushed back straight. Take your time to push them back evenly. 4) When making the thread cone in front of the hollow tie, make sure you keep your thread as straight as possible and secure the cone with some super glue. This is one of the most common mistakes I see people making. If the cone is un-even then the hair will flare out unevenly.
  11. Depends a lot on what kinda profile and size your going for.? For example Mustad C70SD, Partridge ACS/E or for really big hollows the Varivas Big mouth X are great hooks that I use a lot.
  12. The one I'm using on the vid is a 3/0 Mustad tarpon hook. I use a 2/0 very often too. The Mustad C70SD is a hook I use a lot too for these.
  13. If it's a floater which i'm sure it is, it should be ok. Bring along a second cold water line with you when you go out to test it so you can see which one you like.
  14. Let them lay on any open space around our living room. Until my wife says enough is enough. Then I temporarily move them to my tying desk. When the dust settles I do the same thing again...
  15. Thank you sir. I just use an empty pen as my Hollow tool.