MikeBlue

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About MikeBlue

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    1,000 Post Club!

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  • About Me:
    Started a new job, I hope it doesn't cut into my fishing time.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Coaching girls softball
  • What I do for a living:
    Sports Turf Manager
  1. What are you thinking, asking guys on this forum to do a little research and think for themselves!
  2. For a couple of years before I left Long Island I saw families taking all the bluefish they could catch. Sometimes they would catch and clean 40 or more blues (by my estimate).
  3. Rather than spray use the wet naps. I keep a few in my plug bag and I'm never caught unprepared.
  4. After dark I would always stop and help. With plenty of daylight left I would often stop and see what was going on but not always get involved. I found that as a general rule stopping to help was a rewarding experience. It's not often that you get a chance to be the Good Samaritan.
  5. Prophesy #1 has now come true. That makes 4 out of 5 for me.
  6. Look into Instamorph moldable plastic. You heat it up in hot water and put it on the knob you have now, then shape it any way you it. You can use a hair dryer to reheat it and reshape it as much as you want. I have an old Emblem Pro with the skinny T handle, I built it up with the Instamorph and it's much better. I have the white stuff, I believe you can get it in different colors. If you want to meet at the Canal you can look at the Emblem and I can give you some of the stuff.
  7. I went to little seminar with the Daddy Mac guys and they said you should absolutely clean your floro leaders every time you go out. I believe they recommended alcohol wipes.
  8. My situation is similar to yours in that I needed more distance, but I am throwing plugs. I already have two LC reels, the Penn that you have and a Battle II LC that I field tested for Penn several years ago. I prefer the Battle and although Penn is scheduled to release it in the US this year I just ordered one from the UK. For more distance I took a different approach. It seems to me that once you have some basic LC equipment (and a new rod might be in order for you before a reel) the only way to get more distance is to add more input or energy into the cast. To do this I have started to train in a specific way. I took the bottom half of an old 11ft rod that I no longer use and cut the collector guide off. I went to the local sporting goods store and bought set of resistance bands. This a bunch of tubing bands of different strengths and two 'handles'. I took the rod and inserted it firmly into one of hollow hand grips. Now, I attach the end of the band to something firm, in my case the hand rail of a staircase, and practice my casting motion against the resistance band. I stand at two distances from the staircase to practice the first half and second half of the cast. Doing this has helped me in two areas. It made me focus on the mechanics of my cast, foot placement, arm action (push-pull) angle-arc of the rod, etc. And of course it has improved the strength of those muscles I use in the cast, legs, shoulders, core, arms. I saw an improvement in the mechanics of my cast almost immediately, it took about two weeks for the muscle power to show up in a noticeable way. I am about a month into the program. Now when I sit here at night watching my sorry ass NY Mets find new ways to lose ballgames I get out my casting exerciser and "bulk up". One word of warning, the first time I did it I wasn't paying attention and put a 10in scrape mark on the ceiling in my living room. Good thing my wife wasn't home, I was able to paint it over before she saw it.
  9. I appreciate everyone's advice on this. If I go with a light braid and snap off plugs I will go with a shock leader, as stated in my opening post. Also, this is one specific situation I am talking about, I am casting to breaking fish and it is easy to see how far out they are. If I don't need the distance I will go with the spool that has the same 40lb braid that I use now. I am leaning towards 20lb PP Slick.
  10. We all have our own methods of finding fish at the Canal, one of mine entails throwing plugs a long way. Jigging, finding rips and holes is another way. Changing a spool or setting up a distance rod is not a big deal, for me anyway. I see plenty of guys riding around with several setups in their bikes. If the guy with the conventional can use 20lb mono I can't see 20lb braid being an issue. I'm wondering how 10lb braid compares in strength to 20lb mono. Maxquatro looks interesting.
  11. At the spot I fish most often at the Canal distance matters. At my age I need all the help I can get. I recently purchased a distance reel that will come with 2 spools, braid and mono. The braid spool is very shallow. I normally use 40lb braid but I am considering going down to 20lb for this spool. I got to thinking about this after talking to an old timer with a conventional, he uses 20lb mono with a shock leader. Would it be possible to drop to 10lb braid with a shock leader?
  12. I make these weights by cutting an egg sinker in half (not an easy job), then I drill the weight out and, using my vice, press in a brass gas hose barbed connector. Certainly a lot harder than buying them but I like about 2oz and I don't know if they are available in that size. Plus I use a slim profile blank and need to be sure that the diameter of the weight is equal to or smaller than that of the plug. Honestly I don't find a big advantage for this type of weight over using 2 X 1oz tail weights inserted in the plug. Even a plug with an external tail weight can still wobble on take off or in flight.
  13. Keens do have an open toe model, the Daytona. I bought a used pair on eBay for $22 shipped. I have Kold Kutters that I will screw into them for grip. I have a pair of Tevas with KK's in them but the thinner soles makes them uncomfortable, the Keens should work fine.
  14. Keens have a very thick sole but the closed toe box holds sand and pebbles. Maybe they make an open toe model.
  15. I put a hook into my thumb at home, it wasn't in very deep. I tried to cut down to the barb with an exacto knife so I could pull the hook back out. It didn't work so I went to the ER. The doc said he was going to push the hook through and cut the barb. I told him that I thought that was going to cause a lot of unnecessary damage asked if he could back the hook out. He took a closer look and reached in to the barb with some kind of surgical tool and slipped the hook back out. He said that the flesh was cut almost to the barb and this allowed him to pull the hook back out. It seems like standard practice is to push the hook all the way through, depending on how deep the barb is this might be a more damaging way to get the hook out.