The Fisherman

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About The Fisherman

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  • Birthday 11/08/1960

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    Middletown, CT
  1. I think we're having a miscommunication here. Euronymphing is tight line nymphing -- but not all tight line nymphing is Euronymphing. Steve Culton
  2. I really don't think in those terms. But if I had to, I would try to choose a pattern that looked like nothing specific but a lot of things in general, and something that transformed itself in the water into something that looked alive and good to eat. :-) Steve Culton
  3. Bead size to hook size (these are #8 and #12 3xl hooks). If I want more depth/faster sink rate, I use tungsten (sometimes supplemented with weighted wire). Steve Culton
  4. This may be a matter of semantics, but I've never liked the phrase "go-to pattern" because it suggests there is a one-size-fits-all answer, which is so often not the case. If you pressed me for an answer, I would offer: A: What are the trout feeding on? B: What are the stripers feeding on? C: Where and when are you fishing for largemouth? But, I understand that you're trying to build a base of knowledge, which is good. Just keep in mind that trout that are slashing at sulphur emergers may totally ignore your tungsten caddis Euronymph; likewise stripers rising to footlong herring at the surface your dumbbell-eyed 3" Clouser. Here's an example. These are mini and micro buggers I tied for my small stream box. Some have no weight; some have a brass bead head for a little weight and flash; some have a tungsten head to get the fly deep. I tried to keep it simple with white, black and olive (different colors for different light and water conditions). And if I were fishing a small brook in May that wasn't very deep, I probably wouldn't use these flies at all. I just want to be ready in case I need them. So it's not as simple as saying, "the small Woolly bugger is a go-to small stream fly." It's more like, "If conditions warrant a streamer, I now have options within one pattern." Hope that helps, Steve Culton
  5. The top two flies look like the Orange Fish Hawk. Steve Culton
  6. Fish it, catch something with it, then retire it. It will be a nice keepsake down the road. :-) Steve Culton
  7. You'd think. Except that I don't Euronymph. I'm a drop-shot nymph guy. :-) Let's start here: while Euronymphing doesn't use a strike indicator, all indicatorless nymphing is not Euronymphing -- like drop shot nymphing, for example, which can be done with or without an indicator. If you're interested, you can find a diagram of a simple drop shot system on my website, including a low water rig. I agree that many Euronymphing rigs appear to be overly complicated. That doesn't need to be the case. You can use knots instead of tippet rings (I use a single mini barrel swivel in my drop shot system). The different color sections are for visual acuity in strike detection; I do pretty well with just a simple 3' section of gold Stren for a sighter. I'd suggest you pay a visit to UpCountry and ask them for a Euro leader system recommendation. Torrey would be one person to talk to. Hope that helps, Steve Culton
  8. I take it that's directed to me. Do you mean with the Gurgler on point (terminal end)? If so, I do. But that's a different presentation strategy. Withe the Gurgler on point, the other flies will (with a floating line and especially with a corkie) remain in or near the film. With the Gurgler as top dropper, managed/presented on a drag-free drift as a dry, the other flies will sink as far as gravity, weight, profile, drift length and leader allow. Hope that helps, Steve Culton
  9. It works. I've used my home-brew yarn indicators off a dock. Also with a three-fly team with the top dropper being a Gurgler-type floating fly, much like a Hopper-Copper-Dropper setup. Mostly, though, I do something more like tight line/short line nymphing, dead-drifting an unweighted fly or bouncing a jig-head fly off the bottom (I do that a lot in places like the Block Island boat channel). Steve Culton
  10. Dick, I put a lot of pressure on stripers and I've discovered that between the fish and me, we'll sometimes begin to bend out an EC253 1/0. We're talking about fish in excess of 30", and I've never lost a bass from the bending process, but if I suspect that there might be a good one for the taking, I'll move up to the 3/0. The 3/0 wire has never budged, and I've taken fish up to 30 pounds on it. Enjoy your tying! Steve Culton
  11. A snowy walk in the woods yesterday, high temp around 30. This brook has shed most of its shelf ice. Current small stream conditions in southern New England depend on location -- brooks near the shore and in more meadow-type areas have less ice than higher gradient streams in the hills. This pool yielded a lovely native on an ICU Sculpin. Steve Culton
  12. It depends. When I'm fishing water like this.... ...I prefer a shorter stick like a 6' or 7'. Longer rods are a PITA for any kind of bushwhacking, especially moving from pool to pool, and in some of these streams just extending a long rod over a pool can spook fish. Steve Culton
  13. This was December and is typical of the days (high air temp 19 degrees) I try to avoid. Steve Culton
  14. You don't need a 10' rod for nymphing. I nymphed with a 9' rod for years and caught a bajillion trout on it. Having said that, I very much prefer nymphing with a 10' rod. Longer reach, easier to mend. I'm with Mike on weight. A 10" piece of linguine weighs more than a 9" piece of linguine, but neither can be considered very heavy. Steve Culton
  15. I just use my 10' five-weight trout rod. But I mate it with a 7 weight Sci Anglers Anadromous floater. The heavier line helps to carry a bigger payload, and works just as well when I want to throw smaller (down to size 16) bugs. Steve Culton