HL

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About HL

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    1,000 Post Club!

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fly fishing. Fly rod building.
  • What I do for a living:
    Retired

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  1. I beg to differ on the ceramic vs wire guide argument It's simple physics. The rod doesn't know the difference between weight from the fly line or weight from the guides. Soooooo - if you use heavy guides - especially ceramic running guides which weigh at least 2X what REC recoils do - it is like overlining your rod. You will be diminishing the blank's recovery rate and limiting the grains of line you can cast. Simply put - you will be destroying the blanks inherent performance capability. Stating that those of us that use the lightest components possible to obtain the best performing rod are old fashion is ridiculous. And the proffered advantage of slickness is an old wives tale. There is little to no practical friction going on with a fly line running freely through guides. Herb
  2. CapeFish Read all info on Cheeky site: They REQIEST that participants comply with "keepemwet" procedures. Part of that - from Cheeky's site: TIP 4: FISH BARBLESS HOOKS Crimp the barbs on hooks. Not only do barbless hooks cause less damage to a fish’s mouth, but they are also much easier and quicker to remove - especially important when one ends up in your ear or finger!". So - it's buried deep in their site. If read carefully it looks to the reader to be a requirement of the tournament. But maybe it's wishful thinking on my part.
  3. Bob You'd think I would bump into him. The Cheeky guess are supposed to go barbless. Does it happen? Or just when someone's watching? Herb
  4. Hey Bob - Thanks. I haven't run into George. BTW - IMO the Cheeky thing is a blight on our sport. Come to think of it - all contests are a blight. Sorry if I am offending anyone here. Herb
  5. Hey Fattail... I only use dry wall tape when there is VERY little difference in seat and blank diameters. Most of the time I use Flexcoat foam arbors. But the process is the same with all foam or graphite arbors. The challenge to using arbors is to ream them concentric to blank. Easier said than done. Using the principle of differential calculus - cut the arbors into 0.75" - 1" pieces and then ream them separately to approximate the blank's taper as accurately as possible. Unless you have a reamer with the exact taper of the blank you will never get it correct. So - first cut the arbors. Then, if you are a righty: 1. Hold the arbor in your left hand. 2. Insert the tip of a tapered reamer into the arbor's (1/4") bore. 3. Rotate the reamer while pushing gently into the arbor - do NOT rotate the arbor. 4. This is the most important step: Rotate the reamer that is "stuck" in the arbor counter clockwise letting the arbor slip through your fingers. You are not reaming in this step. 5. After you have rotated the reamer and "stuck" arbor counterclockwise - Hold arbor firmly and rotate the reamer clockwise as far as possible. 6. Again - rotate reamer counter clockwise while letting the arbor slip through your fingers again. DO NOT ream in this phase. 7. Repeat #3 and keep doing that until arbor is reamed such that if fits snuggly on blank. Test fit frequently. If you keep everything in line you will get a perfectly concentric bore in the arbor. Then epoxy the arbor pieces to the blank. Wait for the epoxy to cure then epoxy the seat to the arbor(s). If the seat fits too loosely on arbor - wrap some size "D" thread in spirals - one forward and another back on the arbor. If that is still too loose - ask a fly guy for a yard of some 30# Dacron fly line backing and do the same spiral. Regards, Herb
  6. Hi PF, I did try a little "hidey-hole" in Pleasant bay. Truthfully I didn't give it a ;lot of time. I'll try it and Oyster Pond tomorrow and let you know. The word is that the only fish being caught is in Buzzards Bay area. Herb
  7. Hi all. Tomorrow will be one week here. No fish from Race Point to Cockles Cove beach. Water still too cold - evidently. It's an hour ride from PTown to Monomoy Preserve - but I figure they will show-up there before Race Pt. I hope it opens up soon. Herb
  8. Use it just like you would if it were a plain nail - or a hollow tube. But instead of passing it through as you would the tube or passing he tag end through the space between the nail and the wraps - thread your tag end into the hole ands then pull the tool out of the wraps and the tag end will follow. I don't like those because the "right-angle" of the tag end will hang-up. I like the hollow tube like an old empty ball point pen tube. Herb
  9. Hey Dick, Rita and I are trying to set up a condo rental for Aug 4 - 11. Hope the Snook will be active at Blind Pass. Herb
  10. I have to agree 100% with Mike O. Many of the rods described here are NOT fast. They are stiff and hard to load. That's why they have to be over-lined - even with the new plus rated lines. Also you have to exert yourself to generate decent line speed. You want a rod made from a blank that is lively - not dead. Has an excellent recovery rate that will throw a fast line. You can cast for hours without wearing you out or being physically punishing. Herb
  11. All my 4 Nautilus NV reel drags are like that. It is the only thing I don't like about them. But the lightness and quick spool-change make up for it. I just deal with it. My Bauer MX drags are much Better - but more weight and spool change not as fast or easy. Herb
  12. Drew OH NO!!! Converting to lefty sounds like the only option - for you. EXCEPT - after you heal (and it will take a long time) It will make things easier on the thumb if you use shorter and slower rods. That leaves out the #9 and #10 Affinity-X. You may not get the distance or fish controlling benefits the above two rods give you - but you will still be in the game. Crunch mentioned the "V" grip. You should look into that. If you are not familiar with it - the rod grip is powered by the web between the thumb and the index finger. I used to take casting lessons from a gentleman from GLoomis - in the day - who insisted that I use that grip. I stayed with the thumb-on-top because I thought it was more powerful. But given your choices - it may be the way to go. Let's talk. Herb PS - I also tried (briefly and sporadically) to cast lefty to be used when wind on casting arm side. The stroke was doable and effective for the time I put it - but stripping/hauling with my right hand was very ugly. But casters new to the game have the same problems with that. Your brain may overcome the muscle memory thing if you keep working at it. try dry casting/hauling/stripping as much as possible in the house. Just warn your family what's going on so they don't call 911.
  13. Drew, Some of your progress shots of the #9 and #10 as well as the progress shots of the VT's. The new logos look great - so those. I'll leave it up to you. Herb
  14. Paul, I see that you are using the REC Recoil RSPG as runners to keep the line off of the blank.. Probably the #8L's?? I am now using the RSPG #16, #12, #10 after the ceramic stripper - then REC s/f Recoils the rest of the way. I did use the RSPG #8L all the way after the #!^, #12, #10 on a #8 fast action CTS Affinity-X. But the 8L's are about the size of #2 s/f guide and I was concerned if I ever had a snarl going through them. Herb
  15. Drew, Nice set-up. Is that upstairs? Herb P.S. - I'd like to use some of those shots on my CTS Web site. Can you email me some of the pics?