M. saxatilis

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About M. saxatilis

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  • What I do for a living:
    Licensed cynic & sceptic
  1. What, no Norvise?
  2. I completely agree with what others have said about hook size - 2/0 is the largest you should go in my opinion. Too many people use an oversized hook. In fly design the hook is commensurate to the size of the fly. You don't need a big teaser that a 4/0 or 5/0 J hook suggests. A 2/0 will hold a big fish just fine. If it doesn't, and your hook straightens out, then it was your fault, not likely the gear. In my experience people that go the route of bigger hooks can only hold bigger fish have not developed the finesse required to land a large fish. Simply put, you're not going to horse the animal in. Think 20+ inch trout hooked on a size 24 midge. Look at a single hook on a Redfin plug, not the treble, but one of the three that make up the treble. Holds fish just fine. True you may stick more than one hook of the treble in the fish but you get my meaning. My recommendation is TMC 811S although the Eagle Claw 254SS is adequate also.
  3. Not useless fly, you at least know you are able to tie hollow collars.
  4. Seems like most of the comments have your bases covered. I'll add my 0.2 . In addition to the largest size cone you can get, you can easily put a few wraps of lead (or lead free) 'wire' at the head and tuck it up into the cone. Not only will you add weight, but also eliminate the cone wiggle. Another alternative are the Fish Skulls line of fly heads (including sculpin helmets). A rather unconventional method of adding weight would be to use tungsten thread to finish off the head wraps of your fly. Tungsten thread is extremely fine and strong and is actually a fine wire, not a thread. But, the wire can be half-hitched and glued for durability. It will offer you more weight than thread while serving the same purpose at a slightly higher price. Using tungsten thread for saltwater flies is not really a practicable alternative in my opinion, it will require a lot of material for little gain if you are looking at the larger picture. Good luck
  5. robmedina - looks good from what I can see in the picture. I tie a ton of tube flies for trout and salmon and I was wondering what Pro Sportfisher heads you found not readily available? I tie almost exclusively on Pro Sportfisher tubes nowadays if I need new supplies, except that I have a lot of old supplies from miscellaneous companies I need to use up. I am a fan of the Pro Sportfisher needles or mandrels but by far the most convenient one for me is the HMH tube adapter. I learned early on that one severe disadvantage with the Pro Sportfisher is that many tubes will spin on them. Since I use Pro Sportfisher Nanotubes this creates a problem because the tendency is to push the tube down onto the tapered mandrel further, which will split the back end of the tube where the hook holder attaches. Why I like the HMH attachment is because I can catch the back end of ANY tube I am using under the screw eye which locks it in place. I have found that using the HMH tube attachment in any other way is just not that effective. This is not to say that with the way I use the HMH attachment, tubes do not slip. The Nanotubes do rotate ever so slightly because of how soft the tubes are, they do rotate a tad on the mandrel, but they don't spin and it is an easy workaround. I've attached a crude picture of the HMH attachment and screw eye I mentioned. All the best, Kevin
  6. Brian, Less than focusing on techniques, I would tell the Young Padawan interested in tying for saltwater fish species to start with a single pattern; the Clouser Deep Minnow. I would suggest he/she first acquire the materials to tie this pattern in one or two colors. Then I would have them master it. Tie this pattern exclusively until they had it perfect. Post pictures and seek feedback in as many different places as possible. Show it to others but more importantly, FISH IT, so to better understand how your fly holds up or doesn't. Once the Padawan has this mastered, I would encourage them to pick a second fly - Lefty's Deceiver. Wash, rinse, repeat. In their pursuit to tie this fly to the best of their ability, the Padawan will inevitably seek reference materials on how to do X, Y, or Z. In doing so, they will learn specific techniques associated with each fly. Many of the same techniques mentioned above (e.g., pinch-wrap, cinch-wrap, or whip finish) are intrinsic with each of the patterns mastered. Mastering one pattern at a time, purchasing materials specific to that pattern, and learning the tying techniques specific to that pattern, will allow you to develop your skills and see results, in a manner that does not become too overwhelming. One advantage to this approach is that you will accrue materials only as needed and after a few patterns, you'll have a nice collection of materials which cross-over to other patterns, reducing your need to purchase new materials for new patterns. If you think tying is something you'll stick with, I would highly suggest the following book. It is pricey but I have found it invaluable and am always going back to it with eureka moments! Leeson, T, and J. Schollmeyer. 1998. The fly tier's benchside reference. Frank Amato Publishing, Portland, Oregon.
  7. SOL'er Fisheye might have a lead for you. He fishes a lot of spoon flies.
  8. Substitutes- Yes, come to think of it when I tried to get this at my local fly shop here in Anchorage- Mossy's, Mike Brown told me to buy a boa, same damn thing only more. He showed me the one he had but given I already had several packs I dismissed it. I will send you a PM with details.
  9. Stone- I use this for my FW sculpin patterns. When I discovered it was no longer produced I searched the web for it. I scrolled through nearly 9 pages of google results- shopping at each store to acquire a stash of 6 packs. This involved going to each store and adding the item to the shopping cart only to be told "unavailable". It gave me an appreciation for internet stores that actually update their websites. This was going back 8 months or so. Heck, I even advertised a WTB in the SOL fly stuff forums with no returns. I guess my point is it is out there but you got to work for it. Sorry for the bad news but thought it would give you some glimmer (or not) of hope. Kevin
  10. Ordered one yesterday- email I received this morning said the sale was denied at 40.00. The seller listed the wrong price. Pretty sure ya'll will be just as dissapointed as me.
  11. Yup, a female Chum Salmon- The calico coloration is the give away. Raining in Juneau? Go figure...
  12. It may be done any number of ways. I would surmise there is a bump of thread on the hook bend to prevent the material from slipping around. However, the easiest way in my opinion would be to fold a length of material around the hook and zap in place with any of the popular light cured acrylics (LCA) these days. Drop a set of eyes on it, then apply another coat of LCA. I suppose a dab of crazy glue at the fold over would keep the material in place. At least until the first fish strikes. Another thought is to make a thread bump at the fold over point, fold your material, then make a few helicopter wraps about the material to secure it in place, then follow steps as described - lca-eyes, more lca. Hope that offers some insight. Kevin
  13. First off- what degree are you pursuing - B.S., M.S., Ph.D? THat will be a huge driver where you focus your efforts. Most engineering positions, whether in Federal, State, or private industry will require a M.S. You might be able to get away with a B.S. in private and/or state but I would not count on it. Especially given your competition will be with individuals that have an M.S. I hate to burst your bubble here, but engineers don't preserve habitats, they conserve them at best. Preservation is "leave alone do nothing with", whereas conservation is "wise-use". I'm sure you meant conservation of the resources. And if you are heading down the road for a higher education then the opportunities will present themselves. Being surrounded by professionals in your field within the academic environment is one way to maximize your employment potential. I am a fish biologist that works for the Feds. I'm out fishing every week during my time off catching the fish I work so diligently to conserve in a landscape that's second to none.
  14. That all depends on how much money is in your budget to spend. There are "good" vises at nearly every price point. However, "bad" vises at the higher price points are mostly better than the "good" vises at the lowest. This fly tying community will offer a wide array of opinions on what constitutes a good vise. As for me, I tie all of my flies on a renzetti saltwater traveller. In the past I have used Regal, HMH and Dyna-King brands. I only tie on pedestal styles. I prefer the Renzetti to these brands purely on personal reasons. All are good in their own way and you get what you pay for. If you think tying is going to be a flash in the pan for you then go with a more economical brand/model. If it is something that you see yourself doing for a while, then save a few more dollars or beg, borrow, or sell your collectible baseball cards to get the higher end model. You will cut down on the learning curve by going with a higher end vise. This is just my opinion. The other thing you can do is to use the search feature of this forum to look for discussions on this topic. I PROMISE you there will be posts on this dating back to when the site was first implemented. Read these as part of your review process and homework before buying. God luck, Kevin
  15. I bought a Stonefly rotary fly dryer and rod turner for this purpose. Paid 40.00 years ago. Works great for the flies that are slow drying like you mention. As long as you're careful inserting and removing the larger hooks it will last you a while. Ideally though, I believe the foam is intended for small flies but it has handled up to 4/0 long shanked SS hooks. You just need to be strategic in how you put them into the foam. Although I've not had to replace the foam since I bought it 9 years ago, I don't think it would be hard to make something yourself to fit the bill rather than try to find a replacement. I decided to buy a rotary fly drier because I couldn't make one this compact for my tying area. Best of luck. PS- I pulled these pics from a post I made on the subject of fly drying wheels here on SOL. I've included a link to it here Kevin