M. saxatilis

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About M. saxatilis

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  • What I do for a living:
    Licensed cynic & sceptic
  1. Many moons ago I worked for the NJDFW I staffed a deer check station on Rt 130 in Bordentown called Sportsman's Center during the opening days of muzzleloader / shotgun season. Every hunter that came through I would ask if I could have the tail and use a pair of pruning shear to cut it as close as possible. After several weekends of this I have enough tail to provide me and my friends a lifetime of bucktail. Still have some to this day. BTW- the information in the archives here on SOL on drying deer tails helped me in my efforts. Good times.
  2. You'd have a hard time tying striper flies using turkey feathers IMO. Most turkey feathers used are sections of the tail and these are used for bodies of nymphs for trout flies mostly. Shown here are 'Frenchies' tied on size 10 jig hook with slotted tungsten beads. A slip of turkey tail feather is tied in at the tip near the rear of the hook and wrapped up towards the hook eye. The length on most turkey tail slips are not going to give you a good body for SW flies. I use a lot of these same turkey tail feathers (ttf) and incorporate individual tail fibers in my composite loops for intruders and with the collar for some of my FW sculpin patterns. Shown here are Frenchies and a brown intruder that uses TTF (olive intruders). I do not have any recent sculpin pics but if you are interested I can pull them up for you. BTW- what kind of turkey feathers do you have? Tails? THat type of info would be helpful for people to know so we may make the best recommendations for you. Cheers, Kevin
  3. I like a modified Hoo-Fly. Although they are not used in each fly, the legs/tentacle materials vary in these flies using combinations of Bird Fur, spey hackles, rhea, ostrich and grizzly hackles to match the mantle color. Hook: Any long-shanked hook (Shown here are TMC 911S in 2/0 Legs:Bird Fur, ostrich, grizzly hackles Mantle: Senyo's lazer dub treated with Liquid Fusion Eyes: 16 mm prism eyes affixed to mono extension
  4. Welcome back to the saddle. If that's a first go then clearly you've not lost much over the past 15. Just think what the next 15 will bring!
  5. Billy, I'm afraid that that amount of information alone is not going to help you much. Rabbit is as common to flies as toppers are to pickup trucks. As a fly tier myself, I can make use rabbit and barbell eyes in any number of ways to make a fly. One of the easiest is as JohnDe mentioned: a strip of black rabbit (called a zonker) attached to the hook, then wound up to the hook eye. The material around the barbell eyes gets a little trickier than just wound forward but you get the idea. Most folks just make up their own patterns and ties in this fashion so if your bud gave it to you then you may be missing out on buying them commercially. Look up a steelhead / rainbow trout pattern called the WIllie Nelson. Aside from the red head and stinger hook location of a Willie Nelson, does this look similar to what you had? I'm guessing the hook you were using was more towards the head of the fly. I don't know of too many strper flies tied with stinger hook set-ups.
  6. It looks to me like you could buy the Crabby Patty bodies in the desired color, and glue them to a hook that has a "backing" tied to it. Although I have seen the bodies advertised with descriptions suggesting the backings are also sold, I've not come up with anywhere that sells them. However, a search of the pattern has shown several pictures of the underside of the fly, with one that is nothing more than the lead eyes and white yarn of a Merkin pattern. If that's it, you could easily find a tutorial for the merkin fly. Another pic I found had a felt patch cut to shape and mottled with a permanent marker. The trial and error part will be in finding an adhesive that works for you. I'm sure a hot glue gun would do nicely. Actually, the more I inspect these ( and other) pics, it looks like it has a felt patch on the top of the fly for many. The eyes are stuck into the soft rubber body. Some pics I've found have different shell tops as if maybe they're made from all sorts of different things. In short, there's no one right way to do it. A piece of felt cut to shape seems legit.
  7. One problem I have had with using zip ties on the bulk nylon hair shown here is that it is much stiffer than most of the synthetics sold in a zip locked hank. Zip ties work well but you'll need to bundle it in smaller hanks. But moreso, double protect yourself and your hard work of zip tying it by placing it in poly bags. By far the best method I have found to store it; long slender poly bags. Static an be an issue, but resolved as described in previous posts. I like the plastic bags because I can tamp it all down (like a hair stacker / packer) after I pull out what I need.
  8. Yes, probably. I would choose my hook carefully though. Fish in any current will cause you grief. Barring any ethical discussion on quick / prolonged "fighting" times, I would be more inclined to select for a 3x strong heavy gauge hook to get the job done. Of note, the Tiemeco 600SP comes to mind; a 3X heavy, 2X short, 3X wide gap hook with a point that will put any bird dog to shame.
  9. Ice dub? Absolutely, although mostly all of my tying these days is for trout (steelhead) and salmon. Ice Dub (ID) goes into so many of my flies particularly since I am tying composite loops. One thing worth mentioning here about ID- there are several different 'compositions' of material when it comes to ID. Of most practical use for striper flies are the colors of ID that are short strands of material and not kinky curled up strands. The former tend to be: Blue Steelie Chocolate Brown Emerald Green Red Copper Silver holographic Pearl (although varied) Even within these I have seen batches that suggest Hareline is playing with the blend (e.g., blue steelie). I have seen a Blue Steelie Ice Dub that has the curly properties as many of the other colors do. In fact, when I saw this on the shelf at two retail outlets in my town (Cabela's and Mossy's Fly shop) I ran out and bought every package I could of the straight blend (including ordering online) for fear it was more than a temporary change. Much to my chagrin, I now own close to 15 bags of blue steelie ice dub. Although this was almost a year ago, I still frequently see the two blends out there. This is helpful to know especially to the tiers that are buying sight unseen as through mail order. Ice dub is a great material to use between Hollow collars. Adds nothing to the weight, does not detract from the movement, and adds shimmer and sparkle/ flash. Love the stuff.
  10. What, no Norvise?
  11. I completely agree with what others have said about hook size - 2/0 is the largest you should go in my opinion. Too many people use an oversized hook. In fly design the hook is commensurate to the size of the fly. You don't need a big teaser that a 4/0 or 5/0 J hook suggests. A 2/0 will hold a big fish just fine. If it doesn't, and your hook straightens out, then it was your fault, not likely the gear. In my experience people that go the route of bigger hooks can only hold bigger fish have not developed the finesse required to land a large fish. Simply put, you're not going to horse the animal in. Think 20+ inch trout hooked on a size 24 midge. Look at a single hook on a Redfin plug, not the treble, but one of the three that make up the treble. Holds fish just fine. True you may stick more than one hook of the treble in the fish but you get my meaning. My recommendation is TMC 811S although the Eagle Claw 254SS is adequate also.
  12. Not useless fly, you at least know you are able to tie hollow collars.
  13. Seems like most of the comments have your bases covered. I'll add my 0.2 . In addition to the largest size cone you can get, you can easily put a few wraps of lead (or lead free) 'wire' at the head and tuck it up into the cone. Not only will you add weight, but also eliminate the cone wiggle. Another alternative are the Fish Skulls line of fly heads (including sculpin helmets). A rather unconventional method of adding weight would be to use tungsten thread to finish off the head wraps of your fly. Tungsten thread is extremely fine and strong and is actually a fine wire, not a thread. But, the wire can be half-hitched and glued for durability. It will offer you more weight than thread while serving the same purpose at a slightly higher price. Using tungsten thread for saltwater flies is not really a practicable alternative in my opinion, it will require a lot of material for little gain if you are looking at the larger picture. Good luck
  14. robmedina - looks good from what I can see in the picture. I tie a ton of tube flies for trout and salmon and I was wondering what Pro Sportfisher heads you found not readily available? I tie almost exclusively on Pro Sportfisher tubes nowadays if I need new supplies, except that I have a lot of old supplies from miscellaneous companies I need to use up. I am a fan of the Pro Sportfisher needles or mandrels but by far the most convenient one for me is the HMH tube adapter. I learned early on that one severe disadvantage with the Pro Sportfisher is that many tubes will spin on them. Since I use Pro Sportfisher Nanotubes this creates a problem because the tendency is to push the tube down onto the tapered mandrel further, which will split the back end of the tube where the hook holder attaches. Why I like the HMH attachment is because I can catch the back end of ANY tube I am using under the screw eye which locks it in place. I have found that using the HMH tube attachment in any other way is just not that effective. This is not to say that with the way I use the HMH attachment, tubes do not slip. The Nanotubes do rotate ever so slightly because of how soft the tubes are, they do rotate a tad on the mandrel, but they don't spin and it is an easy workaround. I've attached a crude picture of the HMH attachment and screw eye I mentioned. All the best, Kevin
  15. Brian, Less than focusing on techniques, I would tell the Young Padawan interested in tying for saltwater fish species to start with a single pattern; the Clouser Deep Minnow. I would suggest he/she first acquire the materials to tie this pattern in one or two colors. Then I would have them master it. Tie this pattern exclusively until they had it perfect. Post pictures and seek feedback in as many different places as possible. Show it to others but more importantly, FISH IT, so to better understand how your fly holds up or doesn't. Once the Padawan has this mastered, I would encourage them to pick a second fly - Lefty's Deceiver. Wash, rinse, repeat. In their pursuit to tie this fly to the best of their ability, the Padawan will inevitably seek reference materials on how to do X, Y, or Z. In doing so, they will learn specific techniques associated with each fly. Many of the same techniques mentioned above (e.g., pinch-wrap, cinch-wrap, or whip finish) are intrinsic with each of the patterns mastered. Mastering one pattern at a time, purchasing materials specific to that pattern, and learning the tying techniques specific to that pattern, will allow you to develop your skills and see results, in a manner that does not become too overwhelming. One advantage to this approach is that you will accrue materials only as needed and after a few patterns, you'll have a nice collection of materials which cross-over to other patterns, reducing your need to purchase new materials for new patterns. If you think tying is something you'll stick with, I would highly suggest the following book. It is pricey but I have found it invaluable and am always going back to it with eureka moments! Leeson, T, and J. Schollmeyer. 1998. The fly tier's benchside reference. Frank Amato Publishing, Portland, Oregon.