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By Tim Surgent
One of the most versatile patterns
I tie and the only pattern that I can completely say was entirely my design.
Even that wouldn't be 100% true, I used the silicone techniques learned from
some of Bob Popovic's patterns like the Silicone Mullet. This fly has not just
taken a multitude of different species, but it's done so when most other
patterns have failed to do so...that makes it special in my book. Personally,
I've caught stripers, weakfish, bluefish, fluke, sundials, false albacore,
bonito, Spanish mackerel, star gazers, and sea-run cut throat's on it...and not
just one or two, but tons of each! I just made them available to the public
about 12 months ago and hundreds of folks now can't be without them.
Materials:
34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0
white bucktail - non flaring hair preferred
peacock herl
pearl flashabou or crystal flash
silver mylar tubing for body
silicone
Photoflo
1/8"-3/16" prism eyes, silver w/black pupil
Start the thread just forward of the bend
of a 34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0. I prefer white or clear monofilament
thread. The monofilament doesn't make as neat a finished head as the white
thread, but it does look nice. |
 |
| Wrap a
small, fairly straight bunch of white bucktail in at this point. Make sure
to keep the hair on top of the hook and tie it so as not to flair the
hair. Trim the butt ends flush and wrap over them so as to not interfere
with the mylar tubing for the body. These hair should be should be about
double the length of the flat part of the hook. *You can either add two
pieces of flash on each side of the tail now or you can add them just
prior to the peacock herl step. |
 |
| Take a proper length piece of
silver mylar tubing with the cotton core removed and slide it over the
hook so the rear of it reaches slightly past the thread wraps for the
bucktail. Carefully make 4 or 5 wraps over the tubing as shown in the
photo to the right. Whip finish at that point and cut the thread. |
 |
| Restart the
thread at the head of the fly on top of the mylar tubing. You will twist
the mylar tubing in doing this, just twist it back once you get 4 or 5
wraps on it to hold it in place. Trim the mylar that will extend beyond
the thread taking care to never let your materials clutter up the eye of
the hook. |
 |
| This is a
full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top
of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important.
One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows
through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing.
For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body
before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat
this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly,
add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I
suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. |
Keep all materials on the top! |
| This is a
full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top
of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important.
One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows
through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing.
For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body
before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat
this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly,
add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I
suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. |
All set for the peacock herl. |
| Now for the peacock herl or
topping. I have always used and will likely always use real peacock herl.
Yes, it's probably one of the most frail materials regularly used. It's
also the one that is absolutely magic. Peacock herl isn't one color, it's
many - from blue to olive to metallic green to drab green and brown...and
when wet, the tiny fibers come to life. I tie 90% of my flies with peacock
herl and I've seen many flies stop working once the herl is gone. Lay 6-10
pieces of herl, somewhat evened at the tip end but not so much that it
loses the taper. Tie them in on top of the flash or bucktail...keep them
on top of the hook. Clip the butts of the herl neatly. Wrap over the butts
with the thread to make a nice neat head, whip finish and cut the
thread...this one's ready for the silicone! |
All done tying, now for the silicone!
**There are many types of silicone out
there, I prefer DAP or Cinch....but Cinch
is an expensive aerosol, DAP is fine. |
| Working
with silicone is not that difficult...it's not easy, but it's also not
difficult. You must use something to keep the silicone from sticking to
your fingers, if it sticks to your fingers, you'll never get the proper
shape. I prefer Photoflo, it's available in any camera/photography supply
store. I think it's about $8-$10 a bottle. Don't let that scare you, I've
had my original 16oz bottle for about a dozen years now, it lasts. Dish
soap and water will work I'm told, but for less than $1/year, I'll take
the Photoflo! So, you put the Photoflo in a jar large enough to stick a
couple fingers in so you can reapply when needed...and now you start
applying the silicone to the fly. I generally put the silicone right on
the fly as shown here. |
A little silicone on one side and the
top... |
| Then I'll put some silicone
on the other side of the fly as shown here. Then dip your fingers, I dip
my pointer and middle finger and then rub those together with the thumb on
that hand...those three fingers are all you will use. The first thing I do
is lift the herl some and then squeeze the silicone from both sides of the
fly into that area...then put the herl down and begin shaping the
spearing. This is where you'll need the trial and error lesson. You're
trying to make this thing look like a spearing from the sides, from the
bottom, and from the front. Shaping it is up to you. I don't let much
silicone get beyond the hook bend, just a little to help with fouling on
the cast. |
and a little silicone on this side.... |
| Here's the
finished shape that I shoot for. This one actually is far from perfect,
but the general shape is good. At this point, stick an eye on each side
and poke it slightly into the silicone with something sharp like your
scissors or bodkin. I like my eyes placed just behind where the thread
wraps are visible under the silicone and slightly above center. Dip your
fingers again, lightly, and smooth over the silicone covering the eyes.
Now smooth the whole fly again...you may even have to reshape it some,
depending on how well the whole eye application went. That's it, you're
all done, now keep it away from the bluefish if you can! |
Now it's time for the eyes! |
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Copyright© Tim Surgent and www.stripersonline.com 1999-2009.
All rights reserved.
StripersOnline.com - We'll help you catch more fish!
This page was last updated on September 10, 2009
We take your privacy very seriously.
See our Privacy Notice for
details.
|
*If you feel this information can be of value
to others, please feel free to link directly to this page - the URL to link
to is shown in your browser window.
Copyright© Tim Surgent and www.stripersonline.com 1999-2009.
All rights reserved.
StripersOnline.com - We'll help you catch more fish!
This page was last updated on September 10, 2009
We take your privacy very seriously.
See our Privacy Notice for
details.
|